Jeffery

^ Yet, if you look at the collar county vote you can still see a regional differnece. Adding up these counties for Daytonnati: Greene Warren Butler Clermont ...Kasich won 67.2% of the Kasich/Strickland total (not counting minor party candidates) Adding these NE Ohio collar county votes: Lake Geauga Portage Medina Kasich won 57% of the sum total of the vote. This is a 10.2% difference between the two suburban regions, showing, even in a good GOP year, that there is still more Democratic support in NE Ohio. Strickland lost Hamilton and Montgomery Counties, the core counties of Daytonatti. But he did win Cuyahoga and Summit, and also Lorain County, which could be suburban, but is also old factory town (Lorain/Elyria)

The topic is pretty much over. Again, I pretty much just did the usual tourist things, so again I think I never really "got" Cleveland enough. The outer neighborhoods and places like Parma were skipped. And I didn't do a repeat of my Western Reserve countryside tour, which was one of the most memorable things of my 2004 visit. Maybe when I go visit Akron and Youngstown? I am thinking of going up there in February to finish off this visit, since I didnt see those two cities this time. Since I'm so close I need to visit Indianapolis and Toledo soon. Maybe more Indianapolis since its such a midwest boom town.

But that was the whole point of why we were talking about Starbucks... Cleveland being fortunate to have a predominate and unique independent coffee culture. Cleveland is not unique in having a strong local coffee house culture. Cincinnati and Louisville do, as well, and I was mentally comparing these places to Cleveland and Buffalo. Buffalo doesn't have as strong a coffee shop scene, but they do have two good local bookstores that sort of function as 'third places' in their own ways. I think I was as impressed by the local booksellers in Clevleand as much as I was by the coffee houses. BTW, I did eat at that Flaming Ice Cube place on Public Square. Lucky me I was there at an off-hour, or I would never had a table. It's quite popular. Good "whole foods" concept there, sort of a vegitarian/"green" place (but I think they do have meat items?).

The neat thing about Hamilton is how that busy street coming down from the west side focuses on the big county courthouse, terminating the vista down the street. The place still has a lot of gritty old factory buildings, too.

Some really familiar shots of Buffalo! Deleware Avenue row houses and the intersection of Elmwood and Allen in Allentown. I like how the old "Marine Midland Bank" tower terminates the view down Main Street (sort of follow-up move to the way their city hall terminates the view on Niagra Square. BTW, I saw the downtown Toronto skyline from the Buffalo City Hall observation deck! The weather was just right the day I was up there....the skyline and CN Tower where visible out on the distant horizon! That was a great view, Lake Erie from the city hall. On the left, US shore, you could see the Appalachians and it was all cloudy and stormy over the US, on the right, Canada, sunny and bright and clear. A storm front had went through across the lake and you saw the last of it in the US, still. But sort of symbolic, too, of the relative politico-economic states of the US & Canada (like those allegorical Baroque paintings).

Back to Where I Started: Asia Town My exit to Cleveland from Buffalo was 55th Street. This is how I left for Dayton. But before that I drove to very close to where I took my first walk in the city, the diagonals radiating east of downtown, but this time east of that sunken freeway, the one I didn’t cross on that initial walk. I drove a zig-zag pattern between, roughly, the freeway and 55th, following the diagonals and side streets. What’s notable is how these streets fan out, and are somewhat far apart once you reach 55th. So heading east on, say, Superior, you are further from the lake than you might think, by the time you reach 55th. This pattern seems to end at 55th, which I suspect used to be some sort of section or survey line. I was interested in this area as one of the older residential areas, the first one east of downtown, as a repository of (perhaps) 19th century vernacular architecture and cityscape. But I was also interested in it as Asia Town, a developing ethnic enclave. Unfortunatley I didn’t see as much side street stuff due to the one way streets going the “wrong way”, they didn’t operate in an up-and-back alternating pattern like I expected. It would have been better to take an extended walk into this area from downtown. Nothing beats walking these close-in areas. From what I can tell Asia Town extends maybe to that railroad that cuts diagonally across this part of the city. Diagonals are the busy streets. North-south streets are more industrial, and industrial stuff is strung out along the railroad and the lake. I also noticed this very impressive (to me) supermarket right in the heart of this area, on one of the diagonals. Don’t recall the name, but it didn’t follow the usual site plan of store in back/parking in front. This one was built right up to the sidewalk, doors to the sidewalk, with parking either on the sides or across the street. It seemed like a hub of the neighborhood, but there was other things around, too. There’s maybe some early stage gentrification going on, too? I saw one of the factory buildings was converted into some sort of studio space (don’t recall the street, it was a north-south street, though). After this windshield tour, it was onto the freeway and south. About a 3 – 4 hour drive to Dayton (if you work at it & with optimal traffic).

I did return to Ohio City early Sunday morning, for breakfast at the Ohio City Café. This place is probably not too well known as it’s about half a block off Detroit, on a little side street, so away from the main Ohio City restaurant action. It was open early for breakfast so I thought a good last visit. This time I took the rapid to OC, and walked. Saw the front façade of St Ignatius and saw it was part of a campus of sorts. Then I worked my way through the morning side streets to the Ohio City Café. This is a very small space, but with a good (quality-wise) basic breakfast menu, where you can get out of there for around $7 or less with tip and coffee (this is not a coffee shop but a sort of little short-order place, but not really a diner or grill either). Waiter was obviously gay, which made me think I didn’t do anything gay in Cleveland. But I know the gay stuff is really in Lakewood. Yet, I saw a building off Detroit flying that blue & gold HRC “equality” symbol as a flag (oddly enough not the more familiar rainbow flag). The Bells of St Malachi, & Stella Maris Then a walk to the “Flats West Bank”. I saw on the map this church, St Malachi, which might indicate this was an Irish area at one time. So I walked down Detroit to the street the church was on. Seems this might have been a pretty old parish; the rectory looked like an old Italinate house. Seems they have a mission to the homeless here, a lot of homeless folk, but no panhandling. I notice the lakefront freeway cuts through here separating the church from a housing project right by the lake, so older neighborhood closer to the lake. The bells were ringing and the church was open so I went in. I caught the familiar scent of incense, holy water, and candles. But I saw the interior was somewhat sparse in decoration, which could be the gothic style or due to a Vatican II modernization (Vatican II modernizations stripped some older churches of their decoration). Thought it was a long time since I was in church. Turned the corner to this street that parallels the old Superior bridge. Sort of a bent, sloping street, with a view down into the Flats and the downtown skyline beyond. Old houses to the right (south side), factory buildings toward the lake and downhill. Great stuff, maybe some of the older housing in the city, and an occasional bar, too. And further down, newer infill things. But on the left (north) side of the street I saw something intriguing. A newer building with this “Stella Maris” sign, and a statue of the Blessed Mother in a glass box or case, attached to the chimney. Stella Maris. Star of the Sea. I wonder if this is or was some sort of seaman’s mission, ministering to the men working the lake boats, or some sort of home for them. Another reminder that this is a port city, a harbor town. Continuing to the bottom of the hill, to the first intersection in the Flats, I see where they remodeled an old factory, old erecting shed of some sort, and attached one of those new mid-rises to it. County engineers office, I think. Also saw the great stone arches of the Superior bridge. But I decided to work my way to toward the lake, to find Whiskey Island and Wendy Park. This part of the Flats is a mix of factory buildings and parking lots/open space. Beyond the lots you can see that housing project climbing the hill. Things thin out into mostly scruffy open spae as you reach that lift bridge over a branch to Whiskey Island. On Whisky Island What happened here with the river is similar to what happened to the Chicago River, the river making a bend and following the shore before entering the lake. Harbor improvements (?) then cut a new, more direct channel for the river. In Chicago the old river was eventually filled in for Grant Park. Here the old river remained and the peninsula became Whiskey Island (which probably really was an island while the old river mouth remained open). The lift bridge to Whiskey Island was a hoot to cross. I was wondering about the structural soundness of the walkway. This thin structure of steel plate and concrete was heaved and cracked in places, probably due to many years or repeated stress due to bridge movement. You could see the green water down below at times, through the cracks. On the other side I am stuck. Seems the road goes to various low density business things (I think someone once posted there is a salt mine here?). I see a gravel lot with a ‘tarping station’, and the lake shore railroad main, with the final lift bridge over the Cuyahoga before it enters the lake. I could see Wendy Park on the other side of the railroad (could see that tower from the old Coast Guard station) from over the trees and brush, but also saw a fence along the railroad. Apparently you can’t get there from here, and have to drive somehow. Maybe they are going to remedy that some day, to make the park accessible from the Flats? Return to the Superior Viaduct Walked back, past more industrial stuff (and what looked like one or two nightclubs), and then under the arches of the Superior bridge. I noticed that the river shore has a park, and mix of old buildings and new infill between the viaduct and the river, and though that swing span bridge pit was interesting. On the other side of the Cuyahoga was the Oxbow and that Irish bar I was at earlier in the week. Makes me wonder. St Malachi an Irish parish, and an Irish bar across the river? Maybe the Flats, when it had more houses, was an old Irish neighborhood, with enough bridges across the river so the place was one neighborhood, not so much the “East Bank/West Bank” thing. It would make sense as a port of entry neighborhood if immigrants arrived via lake steamer or the lake shore railroad. Of course I had to walk up and on that old viaduct. I returned the way I came and followed Superior. This is one of the more fascinating parts of the city. They still have old buildings fronting the street as it turns into a bridge. One was the “Spaces” art gallery with its cartoon-like lanterns on the roof. Yet the new infill stuff continues the street line onto the bridge, even if they are not built right on the bridge. The gate halfway down, well it gave that “gated community” visual message. But it was open. I see there is an appropriately named “Ponte Veccio” restaurant on the north side (window seats must be fab!). There is an old brick loft building at the very end of the bridge, south side, between the viaduct and the Cuyahoga. The topmost floor is connected to the viaduct by a little wooden bridge or deck (didn’t dare walk on it), which leads to this empty loft with big windows. Peeking inside best I could I noticed it looks out onto the skyline, but also into the very close (seemed like just a few feet) high iron of an old bascule/scissor bridge that appears to be stuck open. This bridge also terminates the view down Superior. The place was flooded with the morning light. It’s as if the genus loci of this part of Cleveland, the spirit of the place, had been condensed into this one space. Wendy Park I ended up driving here. I followed the Shoreway, which looks like it might have been built in the 1930s or 1940s since parts seem more “designed” than the typical expressway. Got off at that lakefront park and then followed the signs. That lakefront park has its own fishing pier, and since there’s no breakwater here, you can see more of that open lake chop hitting the shore. To get to Wendy Park you have to pass some sort of railroad operation, then a marina. Wendy Park is rather underdeveloped, with unpaved roads and parking. It’s almost a nature preserve, so low-key and quiet, woods and prairie, almost like you aren’t in the very heart of the city. I see they had a little fishing pier on one of the river breakwaters or approach bulkheads, guys with multiple lines in the water, but no little bells on them like they had in Chicago (Horseshoe Pier @ Montrose Harbor). The Coast Guard station is blocked off, but I saw guys on the grounds fishing off the bulkheads there, too. While here I discovered what I thought was a ship’s horn, the horn I heard at night in my hotel room, is a horn on the railroad lift bridge, used when operating the bridge. Heard when they lowered the bridge for a freight. Around this time I think it was around noon, yet the way the light works in Cleveland, the northern exposure, it seemed later. I thought of Nelson Algren’s comment on Chicago, that it seemed “an October city, even in the spring”. Maybe Cleveland is an afternoon city, even at mid day?

They have that "Little River Inn", and that post office/convenience store thing. I guess what I do like about is that it's not frou-frou yet. But yeah, maybe one or two more places that are bit more countercultural.

Cleveland is like crack cocaine for urbanism junkys.

^ From experiences here in Dayton, club owners should be accountable for things inside their clubs, and have their licenses revoked if things get out fo hand (excessive police calls to the club, for example). The police are responsible for keeping order on the street. But I guess there is an art to that. Incidentally,New Haven (Connecticut) is having problems with its nightclub district, too: Problem Policing Downtown New Haven confronts Police @@@ I didn't really "do" the warehouse district in a big way. From what I saw (Friday night), the place was pretty active, but orderly. I guess I was impressed that this scene was on more than one street..that the club district extended out to a few blocks, compared to the the more condensed thing we have in Dayton in the Oregon district. Cincinnati is sort of developing something similar along Walnut, starting at Fountain Square. It's not quite as developed as the WH District yet, though. @@@@ I should note that 4th Street could be a good competitor for this, but it's smaller..just one block. I went to one place on 4th that had live music (a reggae band), and had dinner at another (the Tree House), and, of course, coffee at Erie Island. Seems, with the House of Blues nearby this could be more the live music street. Seems since Celeveland has that Rock Hall of Fame that there would be a district that would book some live rock and R&B bands (aside from just the House fo Blues), partly as a tourist draw. Yet scenes like that are somewhat organic, so not sure how to force it. Be nice to see some of this bleed over onto Prospect. Some of it is, on the north side of Prospect, but maybe a bit of a nightclub/restaurant mix on the South side, around, say, that Goldfish place (which looks closed).

Somewhat on topic, I actually was in a WH District club dancing while on my Cleveland visit. Sin or Sim or someplace like that. Even got my photo taken there....

There's a book on the what happened in the 1970 that pretty much says what you do, that the seeds of decline started in the 1960s, as you note. Pivotal Decade: How the US Traded Factories for Finance...

This could be its own topic, even. But not in this thread.

Anyway, interesting stuff. Looks like the Germans are thinking of rebuilding yet again...

This is an old thread, but for a professional journalistic take on the issue the german newsmag Der Spiegel has a nice series (and photo gallery) on the postwar reconstruction Out of the Ashes: A New Look at Germanys Postwar Reconstruction A five part series with eight photo galleries. What is remarkable is how "new" (AKA post WWII) Germanys urban built environment is: During World War II, carpet-bombing by Allied forces leveled up to 80 percent of the historic buildings in Germany's main cities.... ....Never before had so much been lost -- and, yet, never before were there so many new beginnings. Never before had an entire country been rebuilt. Indeed, the lion's share of buildings standing in Germany today was erected after 1948..... ....From an architectural and urban-planning point of view, Germany's phoenix-like resurrection from the inferno resembled a continuation of the wartime destruction by other means: Another 30 percent of the country's historic buildings were simply wiped off the map to make way for the new. I'd also note, that for the cities that lost their older (pre 19th century) cores (building stock dating from the pre-Napoleonic era), they did retain neighborhoods dating from the 19th century, mostly starting in the 1870s, so what remains that is old (by US standards) is as old as US cities. For example, the building stock in 19th century districts surrounding the old core of Nuremburg are about the same vintage as Cincinnatis Over the Rhine, maybe even newer. Antebellum districts of Baltimore, Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh ("Mexican War Streets") are probably older than what is still standing in German cities.

Why, Scrabble, I thought you were "tolerant"? We are just discussing this, not taking it too serioulsy. It's only an 'epithet' to your side.

The Cleveland Fed has released another report on the employment situation. The Employment Report and Displaced Workers The interesting thing here is that they do a compartive study based on a BLS survey of displaced workers. They compare this and the previous recesssion. "The Displaced Worker Survey also asks about the reason for the worker’s displacement, and in fact, only workers who respond that their plant or company closed or moved, that there was insufficient work, or that their position or shift was abolished are considered as displaced workers. During the last two recessions, there were marked differences in the reasons cited for displacement. In 2010, the most frequent response is insufficient work, whereas in 2002 it was the closing or moving of the plant or company. Responses from the 2008 survey (along with other recent nonrecession years) look similar to 2002. These different responses between 2010 and other survey years likely reflect the widespread nature of the aggregate shock that hit the economy in 2008 and 2009." ...however, they provide a caution in interpretation: "It may be tempting to interpret the data on reasons for displacement as evidence that cyclical effects, as opposed to structural effects, are primarily driving unemployment; however, we would be cautious in making that inference. The survey is asking workers about the reason for their displacement but not about impediments to finding a new position. Thus, the low re-employment rates could be driven by weak current demand, by structural factors in the labor market, or by a combination of the two." ...they then discuss re-employment rates, by sector, concluding with this depressing observation: " Still, while there is some evidence of increased variability in re-employment rates across industries in 2010 compared to early years, the overwhelming pattern is that re-employment rates have shifted sharply down across a broad range of industries."

This started in the 1970s and early 1980s, with two-tiered wage and benefits deals (like the one that GM got to convert the Frigidaire plant into the now-closed Moraine Assmebly operation). So this is a long term phenomenon.

I think if we see inflation it won't be a wage price spiral since that (in the 1970s) was supposedly due in part to COLA's in union contracts. There is enough of a surplus labor population now to hold down wages. ...that's pretty much where I see inflation coming from, too. Also energy prices.

I'm coming around to that too, but during the 19th & early 20th century the economy did produce living wage work, or we wouldn't see the physical evidence of that, in other words districts of single family houses for the working class....detached in the Midwest, rowhouses on the East Coast (Baltimore & Philadelphia) Apparently jobs where paying enough for people to move into this housing vs living in shanty towns or multifamily tenments (with some exceptions in certain cities and neighborhoods)

When was the last time you've been to Springfield or Middletown? (...ducks)

Missouri is more like Alabama of the Midwest. Ohio is more like North Carolina minus the growth. I was thinking Birmingham, Anniston, and Gadsden are heavy industry rust belt thing, Huntsville is the high tech defense place (Dayton) and Mobile is the "Cincinnati"...And there is no "Columbus"...thats' Atlanta. oh, wait.... But yeah, OK, Carolina. I guess that textile thang means they are the "Lint Belt"?

Some more observations: Shaker Land II: Cleveland Heights I group this with Shaker Heights and Shaker Square as “Shaker Land” since it’s “sort of the same” in look and feel. The purpose for going here was to see if the Communist bookstore was still around (it’s really called “Revolution Books”) but it also gave me a quick impromptu tour of Cleveland Heights. Drove up Mayfield from Little Italy. Quickly came to Coventry, but missed the turn. I did spot Revolution Books out the windshield but I had thought it was on the corner. Turns out it’s more on Mayfield. Figured no big deal, I’ll just make a right and go around the block. Turns out these are longer blocks so I had to drive a bit to make that right, after which I promptly got lost on the side streets of Cleveland Heights, which were beautiful tree lined streets in fall colors. Houses looked more foursquare/craftsman in style, whereas I remembered CH to b e more a mix of cottages and apartment blocks for some reason. In some cases I wasn’t sure if I was looking at a park, a school grounds, or someones forested large lot. I think I ended up on Euclid Boulevard or something, which took me back the the south end of the Coventry district. This was going to be just a windshield tour, but I parked after seeing Mac’s Books, and walked down the shopping district a bit. Not much to say since things were closed (Sunday), maybe a more developed than Larchmere, or a different mix. Saw something called City Buddah (?) across the street. Now what was that? This was maybe too quick a look. I could spend a bit more time here shopping around, or driving around, or eating. @@@@ Since I was interested in old stuff I made a point to explore Ohio City since that was recommended as a surviving concentration of 19th century housing stock. Ohio City at various times I was here more than once since the place was a short Rapid ride and nice walk over the Veterans Bridge, but these were walks/visits to 25th Street and West Side Market. Veterans Bridge seems like it was modified (on the north side) for a wider sidewalk and bike lane, and people really use this bridge, too (bikers and walkers). South side has a narrower walkway. 25th was probably more built-up at one time (?) but those high rise housing projects and that hospital destroy the street wall on towards Veterans Bridge (Detroit Avenue), except for that nice commercial block at Detroit and 25th, with the Italian restaurant. Beyond this modern stuff, toward the market you have a classic urban busy street with a mix of things, including yet another bookstore (used books) and that funky gift/bric-a-brac place that I recall stopping at during an earlier visit. As you all know the side street across from the market has various foody things; the Great Lakes brewpub/restaurant (I think), with Cleveland Public Art around the corner, Flying Fig, etc. But 25th seems to have a little mix of nightlife, too. But the area (25th & Lorain) doesn’t seem especially gentrified. I figure this area used to be Puerto Rican before gentrification, but then I noticed that Hansa place on Lorain, a bit west of 25th, so figure this might have been a German area at one time (where are the Germans at now?...there are enough to support a radio show on Sunday, which I listened too a bit). But I did explore beyond 25th. Deeper into Ohio City I had a little guide I downloaded, and used that as a rough outline for an side street tour. I started out on Detroit and worked my way south and west on various tree lined side streets, yet another flaneuriad, without too much a plan. I think I made it as far west, as least, as the Franklin Castle. Maybe a block or two beyond that. I know I walked past that park with the big community garden next to it on this stroll. Ohio City seemed, at times, sort of surprisingly like the back streets of an old county seat town, maybe because of the age and variety of the buildings. But then the scale of the place..the way it extends..hits you and you realize you are in a city environment. Ohio City has a good concentration of Italianate cube houses, possibly one of the better concentrations I’ve seen in an urban environment, plus the usual Victoriana (Eastlake, Stick Style, etc). I notice the more generic vernacular houses here have their own thing going on, not exactly like what ones finds in Buffalo. Same generic typology, but with local variations. For example, I notice more side-entry conditions, and the fenestration and proportions are different. If I inhabited some alternate universe where I really was a cultural geographer or urban historian (instead of some random internet crank) I could probably write a book (or at least a journal article) on 19th century vernacular typologies of urban Midwest housing, because there is a lot of interesting city-specific variations on what is, at first glance, a superficially similar typology. But most folks don’t pay much mind to these nuances. What grabs them is the detailing and scale, and some of the detailing (and the way it’s been restored) is pretty amazing, as is the size of some of these places. Actually the general character of this area is pleasant, and it keeps on going west, it seems, streets receding into the distance under tunnels of trees, all algow in fall color. I should also note that as I was walking the side streets paralleling Detroit that I could again see Lake Erie, could look “out of the city “ to the blue horizon. It appears Detroit is high enough above the lake and there is less building, for some reason, along the lake side of Detroit, where you can get these long views out to the lake. Seems there are some funky street angles and patterns in Ohio City, since the streets sort of break away from a grid and start to radiate from a non-existent ‘circle’, “Franklin Circle”. It’s easy to get switched around here. Little corner store things around, further south toward Lorain, similar a bit to Tremont, where one street seems to want to become a ‘busy street’ (more stores and apartments, maybe..Fulton was it?) but isn’t. Yet the atmosphere is different for some reason. I noticed some modernist infill and remodeling on the side streets closest to 25th, and figured this was where the gentrification started. The tree lined side street world starts up pretty fast off 25th, too (very much like Chicago in that way). One should also note the public buildings. The churches, of course, but also that curved front library near where all the streets come together. And Saint Ignatius High School. Saint Ignatius and Lorain Avenue Saint Ignatius was a revelation. I first saw it towering up behind a row of side street houses and wondered what in the heck was that?! It’s so massive yet such an fabulous example of Victorian exuberance. In a lot of places these buildings would never survive the wrecking ball (believe it or not Dayton actually had a collection of these Victorian extravaganzas…schools and a hospital. All gone to dust). But St Ignatius survived. I saw it again on an early Sunday morning, from the front, church bells ringing. Gaining Lorain Avenue, I walked this city busy street down to maybe a thrift store and gas station, about a block or two beyond that Catholic social service place on the South side of the street. I could see another churches, south of Lorain. Lorain seems to go on and on... On Lorain, about a block west of the Market I saw a Hungarian bakery, I think across from that Hansa place, but it was too late and it was closed. Makes me wonder if there was other food stuff here at one time, due to proximity to the market. Of course the West Side Market. I think I already posted on how much I love that place. I stocked up on baked goods, including a loaf of Lithuanian rye, a bread I grew up on in Chicago, though the crust on this different. Got some bananas and oranges to snack on at the hotel. The Flying Fig But I really ate at the Flying Fig. Another one of my meals (I also ate at Crop in the WH District, more upscale than I expected, but a had great fall-themed pasta thing, smokey flavor from the meat, ham I think). The Flying Fig was special. I got a little two-top banquette right by the door, in the bar area. I could watch the glow of the setting sun play across the streetscape out the window and door, playing off the passersby and people at the Great Lakes sidewalk seating across the street, eventually lighting up the window frame and wall inside the restaurant itself. And they had the door open so a nice breeze was wafting in every so often. And I could see people coming in for dinner (overheard the maitre-d’ say the place was fully booked for the evening). Perfect. Let this moment last, one of those memories that will stay with you. Food was equally memorable. Had their soup of the day (potato, but not vichyssoise), an excellent salad sourced from that community garden I had walked by, and a polenta that had a bit of heat to it, not bland like some I’ve had. After dinner the waitress showed me the dining rooms and the told me about the deli next door (connected to the restaurant), where I got some sweets for acquaintances here in Dayton. I finished up at that next door coffee shop with a cappuccino. Ohio City was one of those neighborhoods where you could just keep on walking, following the side streets deeper into the city, or walking the busy streets like Lorain. Seems like you’d always find a little surprise (like that urban garden or an exceptional house or church or school). For busy streets Lorain seemed more appealing for some reason than Detroit. And I do regret not exploring the district south of Lorain. The guide noted an exceptionally old church there (1830s I think). I returned to Ohio City on my last day, very early in the morning, for breakfast. More on that in the next (and final) post.

The German Marshall Fund is a US foundation set up by the Germans as sort of a repayment for the Marshall Plan help we gave them. They seem to do a lot of cross-cultural stuff. They now have an urban policy intiative, the "Cities in Transition" program, which appears to be ia joint venture with two US non-profits, and involving Youngstown and Cleveland. Cities in Transition Initiative "A sustainable network for leaders from Flint, Detroit, Cleveland, Youngstown, and Pittsburgh supported by the Surdna Foundation and the Kresge Foundation and organized by the German Marshall Fund of the United States" ...looks like they are going to be offering Leipzig as an example of how to deal with shrinkage. To launch Cities in Transition project in October 2010, GMF will bring together stakeholders and study tour participants for a one-day meeting in Detroit to engage leadership and identify desired outcomes early in the process. The cornerstone of the project will be a study tour to Leipzig and one other successfully shrinking European city in December 2010, during which participants will have an opportunity to meet with key policymakers, examine the “why” and “how” of these cities’ successful approaches and identify the key parallels between these American and European cities.

Of course the Land of the Square Door Knobs...Germany...but I'd have to learn that language.