Hello Ohio,

I'm from the big easy - yes a recent Hurricane Katrina victim, but not the ignorant folk as seen on television.  Since the storm, my family and I have decided to relocate to the Dayton area after a great job offer at Wright-Patt AFB was presented to my husband.  Coming from a city full of rich culture, fun festivals, and the most outstanding restaurants on the planet, I am nervous about moving to the Buckeye state (or known as Yankee-ville around my parts).  After looking at this site, I am pleased to see that Dayton is chocked full of activities, rich architecture, and more.  If you have been to Dayton or if you are a local there, please give me some tips on getting around, finding great restaurants, any thing to avoid, and any must-see or must-do's in the city.  Thanks in advance for your help.

Signed a wounded but not broken spirit from New Orleans

p.s. - is there a Cafe Dumonde equivalent in Dayton? what about Bourbon street? - just kidding

Hi there, welcome to Dayton!

 

I'm one of the locals (even if I'm not living there at the moment), but I'm really bad at giving this kind of advice, which is why it's good I don't work for the CVB or something.  I'm particularly bad at restaurant advice, so I'll leave that for others to give.  The Oregon District (which is downtown-ish) is sort of Dayton's happenin' place, but to be honest I don't know what to recommend or not recommnend there--again, I'll let somebody else do that.

 

I suppose some must-do things are the same as what a tourist (if there ever were such a thing) would do-- Air Force Museum, Wright Brothers sites, etc.  Dayton has a single A minor league baseball team; if you like baseball, thier games are pretty popular, though as far as I know they're all still sold out, so you either have to buy lawn seats on game days or find somebody to buy tickets from.  Cincinnati is an hour away so it's easy to go see the ever popular, but often losing, Reds (or to see many other things besides sports).  Dayton's art museum (the Dayton Art Institite) is no world-class museum, of course, but it's pretty good from what I understand (I wouldn't know what makes an art museum good or not).  There is a farily new performing arts center downtown, and as in many cities, traveling productions of various Broadway shows come to town.  Dayton has also got a ballet company, and probably some other performing kinds of groups that I'm forgetting--there's got to be a music one, but I can't think of the name.

 

Shopping, unfortunately, is generally not an interesting experience in Dayton, though I don't know if you care or not.  There are only a handful of retail places left downtown and no other little shopping districts that I can think of, though some of the suburbs retain the small-town main streets with some shops.  Most retail is in subruban strip malls, etc.  The two major malls are the Dayton Mall in Miami Township (near 675 and 75) and the Fairfield Commons mall in Beavercreek (675 and North Fairfield Road).  Both of those of course have the usual surroundings of big box stores and other sprawly things.  The Greene one of those "lifestyle center" malls, is under construction in Beavercreek on the county line (675 and Indian Ripple Road).

 

In terms of getting around, if transportation is what you mean, driving is rarely a hassle.  Generally the only traffic backups are on I-75 at the usual rush hour times, but any problems are nothing compared to our neighbor to the south, Cincinnati.  The bus system operates only in Montgomery County except for a stop at Wright State University.  I don't know where you are living, but if it's Beavercreek or Fairborn, you won't have access to the bus.

 

I'm can't think of what else to mention at the moment.  If you have any specific questions, I'll be happy to try to answer them.  And I'm sure ColDayMan and others will be along to answer your questions as well (and to do a better job of it).

 

I'm very sorry for the losses you suffered due to the hurricane.  I hope you can be happy in Dayton!

Traffic is worst in the suburbs in Dayton.  Avoid the Dayton Mall area during rush hour.  The freeways are usually pretty free, though ive been on jams on I-75 on occasion, near the Dryden Road/Edwin Moses exits.

 

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If you like the peforrming arts Dayton is best at dance.   Seasons tickets to the ballet, if just for one season, is worth it as they are quite good.  Also, perhaps even better than the ballet is the Dayton Contemporary Dance Company, "the DCDC", who have put on execllent shows.  Then there is Rtyhem and Shoes, which does a contemporary dance interpretation of traditional American theatrical/vaudville dance,  like tap.

 

The Symphony is actually pretty good too..they are very innovative in their programming and concert series.

 

I am a music fan so go out alot.  Dayton is excellent for a small provincial city for a very active live music sence...some of which gets featured on a local public radio show on Friday nights..the "Around the Fringe Show"....and you can get the local band CDS at local record shops like Gem City or Dingleberrys....Germ City is actually ok for a record store. 

 

For big-name folk and traditional music CityFolk is a local production company and puts on great tourin shows of various types of traditional music.  Their concerts are usually in the grand old Victoria Theatre downtown.   Get an orchestra seat if you go to any of these concerts.

 

My favorite music club is probably Canal Street Tavern.  They play trad stuff (bluegrass, folk, celtic, blues) but also alternative rock.  They book local and out-of-town artists.  As it is run by an old folky they have the "Musicians Co-Op" on Tuesday nights which is a showcase for local acoustic peformers.

 

Gillys is the good place for jazz, and they are always booking big-name jazz acts into their club. 

 

There  are a few live music places in the Oregon district, and this scene spills out from the Oregon into downtown with live music at Elbos and, on occasion, at the Foundry nightclub (although I think these are more dance clubs).

 

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Food and Drink.

 

For a good wine, beer, and spirits selectin Arrow Wine and Dorothy Lane Market are your best bet.   For good food and ingredients if you cook Dorothy Lane Market has a good meat and fish selection, a great bakery, and a pretty good vegtable department. There is this new place that is getting some foody traffic, Trader Joes, but I think its a chain. 

 

There are good places for specialty foods in nearby Yellow Springs, too.  Yellow Springs should be on your itinerary for perhaps a Saturday afternoon windowshopping, on Xenia Drive, I think, as its their main street.  It is a little college town with a very bohemian feel to it and has some pretty good artisans working there.

 

Charlies Market in Old North Dayton is a place I go to for some German things I like, but it is sort of grungy and you have to know what your looking for.  Ive got some home-made Hungarian sausage there too, but that was I think a one-time good deal.  I really wouldn't recommend it for food shopping, just a local curiosity.

 

I've seen that Woodys Little Farm in suburban West Carolloton has some good imported beers, too.

 

For fresh seafood, aside from the DLM, there is Arcade Seafood downtown, and I think Jays Restaurant (in the Oregon district) also does retail sales of fresh seafood (not sure about that).  Jays has a reputation as a good seafood restaurant but Im not a seafood fan so cant say.....

 

 

Restaurants

 

My favorite is in Yellow Springs, "The Winds. Cafe"  ..they have a website, where you can see their menus. 

 

They have a spinoff, Meadowlark, in a strip center near the Dayton Mall., which though small, is good.

 

In town in the Oregon District, the two I've been to are Cafe Bouelevard and Blue Moon.  Both quite good.  Blue Moon has a spin off located in quaint suburban Centerville, Eclipse, which also has a website..  I've had some truely excellent dinners at Eclipse.

 

Figlios (based in Columbus) in suburban Kettering in the upscale Town and Country shopping center is a good wine and pasta place, with those wood-fired gourmet pizzas.  I usually have some pasta dish there.

 

The fancy French restaurant is L'Auberge in suburban Kettering. The dining room is sort of stuffy, but they have a bistro section which is more casual.  There is another French place in suburban Oakwood, C'Est Tout. more casual and maybe not as haute cuisine.  So, two French restuarants. 

 

 

For more ethnic cooking and some local history thrown in go to Eleanors Amber Rose, in Old North Dayton.   This was the old "ethnic neighborhood", and the restaurant is in an old Polish butcher shop.  They serve food from Lithuania (the owners are of Lithuanian ancestry), Poland, and Hungary.  I would say this is probably one of the more "Dayton" of the restaurants that Ive mentioned. 

 

There are quite a few Chinese places around, a few Thai, and a few Indian.  I like Amar India for Indian, located near the Dayton Mall. This is actually a very nice, tho small, white-tableclothe restaurant, not a hole-in-the-wall.

 

Also near the Dayton Mall there is a Punjabi and Lebanese place.   And I think a central American place in suburban Bellbrook (not sure about that).  There starting to be more Mexican places, but they leave me cold as my partner is of Mexican ancestry and is an accomplished cook so I get that at home! lol !

 

...but mention should be made of El Meson,run by a Colombian which is not Mexican but does specialty ethnic cooking from Latin America and Spain and the Carribean.  Here is a review/ 

 

I'm thinking there are some Greek places in town, too...im thinking Tickets in Fairborn is Greek...i have a Greek coworker and will ask him....

 

And of course there are tons of chain restaurants.  Two should be mentioned..Carvers Steakhouse and J Alexanders.  Both are quite good, and J Alexanders has huge portions.

 

And, finally, there is the venerable Pine Club...a late 1940s steakhouse that is still in buisness and is a local institution.  All dark panelling.  And steaks and stewed tomatos. 

 

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For things to do, some have been mentioned upthread and in Pigboys post.  I'd add to do some bicycling on the local bike trail network, which is quite extensive.   Take a walking tour of the Oregon District...both the Fifth Street shopping/nightclub street and the residential streets to the south.  Take a walking tour/go window shopping in Yellow Springs.  Take a country drive out to the pleasant rural villiages of Waynesville and Germantown (and stop to go antiqueing in Waynesville....tho Germantown is, to me, a bit nicer and not as touristy).

 

And Cincinnati is a short 45-50 minutes away, which is a entirely additional world to explore.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh, a neat thing to do on Saturday Morning would be to go to the Webster Station Market, which is an old railroad freighthouse in this old industrial area which was turned into a "market"...really a bunch of stands that sell foods, flowers, etc....

 

 

Festivals. 

 

Well, you can search this site, as I've posted on a number of festivals that are held downtown over the course of the summer...though I didnt post on the Reggae Festival.

 

The Trotwood Jazz Festival, though brand new, promises to be a great event.  I went this year and it is in a beautiful wooded park...it is a pay-event.

 

Two festivals that are very popular that I did not go to are the Greek Festival held at the greek orthodox church up in Grafton Hill next to the art insitute , ovelooking downtown.  And the Art Institute Octoberfest is also pretty popular.  You have to pay to get into that one, but its a combination juried arts & crafts show, and an Octoberfest, with lots of beer (including im told a great import selection) and German bands.

 

Mountain Days is also pretty popular...it is more a music festival with some big name country and bluegrass performers (this year they had Patty Lovelace)..Dayton has, it seems, a very large population from the southern Appalachians, so this is a big event for that community. Its a pay festival and Ive been once.

 

I should say that the big "wild party" festival is supposed to be Halloween in the Oregon District, which fills up Fifth Street.  I've never been but I've heard it does get a bit rowdy and boozy.

 

 

 

Dear Jeff and Pig Boy,

I can't thank you enough for your detailed responses.  This really does make me feel like our move will be a good one after hearing about some great musical and performance events, restaurant options, shopping excursions, and day trips.  I will read over your responses again and see if I have any further questions.  I truly appreciate your input. 

 

I definitely enjoy ethnic foods like Lebanese and Greek, and my husband loves German sausage and beer.  Actually we love all foods and in New Orleans, we could nibble on anything we desired.  So it's nice to hear the Dayton area has a wide variety of selections as well. 

 

I do enjoy the performancing arts so I will check into the schedules and tours of the Victorian Theatre and others after we get settled.  I wish we could be there for the Octoberfest or Halloween Festival but we won't be there until the first week of November.  Let me know if there is anything fun to do during Thanksgiving since we'll be away from family. 

 

We will be enjoying apartment living for awhile so we can take our time and look for a house.  Areas we will be touring soon for apartments include Beavercreek and Centerville.  I don't think we'll settle in Dayton itself.  My husband want to be closer to Wright-Patt for work obviously.  I will be settling in, exploring the area, and steadily job hunting if my current employer doesn't keep me on remotely.

 

I will check out the bike trails you mentioned.  I am sure it will be more scenic then the flat concrete along Lake Pontchartrain where I used to ride. 

 

I want to re-read your posts and think if I have any more comments/questions.  Thanks in the meantime for your honesty and help.

 

 

I thought of a question that I was asked by a family member that I didn't know the answer to - Can anyone tell me the most dominant heritage of Dayton's area?  Was it inhibited by Germans, Canadians, or some other folk? I was just curious.  Coming from New Orleans, there is a melting pot of people there but it is known mostly for French inhibitants and Spanish influence (hence the famous "French Quarter" and "Spanish Square" of downtown New Orleans). 

 

I was just wondering if I should load up on my Cajun and Creole favorite dishes before moving here.  Has anyone ever purchased these brands in the Dayton area - Zatarain's, Zapp's, Tony's Chacheres, and other prevalent New Orleans seasonings and such?  If you have never heard of these, let me know and I will stock up my supplies before moving there.  Thanks in advance for your comments.

lady never fear. if you like to cook you will soon get to know the wackiest, largest, most international grocery of your dreams conveniantly located for you in the northern cinci burbs -- jungle jim's. as you will see -- if they dont have it it dont exist -- lol!

 

 

link:

http://www.junglejims.com/index.cfm

 

***otoh, why take chances right? you might want to bring that stuff you mentioned and some bottles of peychauds too just in case!

 

Jeff is the resident expert on heritage issues, so he can fill in the details, but I think the dominant ancestry, if there is one, is German, although it's much less evident than in Cincinnati.  There is a pretty strong Appalachian background to a good portion of Dayton's population, though, and you're much more likely to notice that.  As far as the influence it has on things, I'll just let Jeff address that.

 

Like mrnyc said, it's a pretty safe bet that Jungle Jim's will have whatever food you're looking for.  Plus singing robots!

I am not a native so probably not that much an expert on local ancestry, but PigBoy is probably right about the Germans.

 

This place is pretty much bland Middle America,  with most of the people of European immigrant ancestry thoroughly assimilated... you won't find any real ethnic neighborhoods left here,  like you would find in Chicago or Cleveland.

 

The Appalachian influence is probably largest in religion (which perhaps acounts for the large pentecostal, evangelical, and fundamentalist denominations in the area) and also in speech patterns and dialect, and perhaps a local fondness for certain stereotypical "southern" pop-culture things.  Dayton is probably more "southern" sometimes than one would expect.

 

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For speclialty items like those spices or seasonings you mentioned you should probably stock up before you come here.  Jungle Jims may carry those brands, but be safe and bring your own to start.  Jungle Jims does have a pretty amazing selection of things, but they are closer to Cincinnati, so its a bit of a drive to go grocery shopping.

 

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German beer and sausage.  There are no German restaurants in Dayton...you have to go to Cincinnati for that...the Hofbrauhaus in Newport, across the river from downtown Cincinnati, is your best bet for fairly authentic German food and beer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Be careful when addressing "ethnic" groups.  African-American is an ethnic group and there are many African-American and African enclaves within the city (some varying from Nigerian re: Cornell; to Ghanian re: Kingsdale).  I am not that familiar with "White" Dayton that well (I grew up on the northwest side; I only stepped east of Wayne Ave. a handful of times while living in Dayton for over 12 years) but I presume it's German, some Italian, some Hungarian, some Polish, and whatever else (from who I've known, etc).  But on the whole, Dayton is no different than other Midwestern cities regarding ethnic pops (about average).

ColDayMan, do you have any comments on some of the ways in which Dayton's African-American communities are unique?  I don't want to stray too far off topic, but it seems relevant since we're sort of talking about Dayton's culture.

Dayton's African-American communities in general have a sense of place in that the community pretty much flourished since the days of Paul Lawerence Dunbar to the Funk Music era of the 60's, 70's and 80's.  There is a strong sense of African-American unity within the west and northwest sections of the city and that alone is "unique" to Ohio (a state that rarely has a conjointed black community in the first place).  The music, the history, the progression.

 

Of course the Nigerian/Ghanian area have huts and shacks (food joints) that cater to that (notably around Salem, Gettysburg, and such) group.  Even Donut Palace was started by a Nigerian (Donut Palace is on Salem Ave at the intersection of Gettysburg).

Daytonians (and Natians of course) have a noticeable southern accent to someone like me who speaks in a typical Toledo/Michigan dialect.

I think the accents can sort of be split in two.  A lot of people speak with something of an Appalachian accent, some very strongly, and a lot of people speak with just the standard Midwestern accent, which is what I would consider the native accent.

 

(as I consider Nati the south)

You'd better not let montecarloss catch you saying that! :wink:  (I'd also say it's flat out wrong to think of Cincinnati as in the South, but that discussion's been held already.)

^ This is the thread I started on the topic earlier this year, y'all:

http://www.urbanohio.com/forum2/index.php?topic=2753.0

Dayton's African-American communities in general have a sense of place in that the community pretty much flourished since the days of Paul Lawerence Dunbar to the Funk Music era of the 60's, 70's and 80's.  There is a strong sense of African-American unity within the west and northwest sections of the city and that alone is "unique" to Ohio (a state that rarely has a conjointed black community in the first place).  The music, the history, the progression.

 

To add to what ColDayMan said, the Dayton Contemporary Dance Company, which I mentioned upthread, is one of the  cultural institutions to arise from the local African American community.  Not only is the DCDC locally sigifigant it also has national importance for its creative work in the art of contemporary dance. 

You can read a history and intro to the DCDC here

 

 

 

 

 

 

A bit more on the Southern Appalachian influence in the Dayton area.

 

One of the big contributions locally has been the strong bluegrass/gospel music scene (probably stronger in the past than nowadays).  Some big names in genre came from this areay

Jeff, I believe there is a German restaurant on Troy Pike (near that old bowling alley; south of the Lee's Chicken @ Stanley) but I don't know if that closed or not.  There used to be a German Restaruant near that Amber Rose.

As for the whites Jeff, I'm not sure if they are any more "bland" white America than the Great Lakes cities. Chicago, Detroit, Toledo, and Cleveland all have lost a lot of their white ethnic roots IMHO. Ethnically and religiously speaking, Dayton is more Appalachian than the Great Lakes cities of course, and very similar to Cincinnati. Daytonians (and Natians of course) have a noticeable southern accent to someone like me who speaks in a typical Toledo/Michigan dialect. It's amazing the range of dialects in Ohio!! I've said it before, and I'll say it again, we are THE microcosm of America.

 

Interestingly, I've heard that Michiganders think Toledoans (and northern Ohioans in general) have a slight twang.  I never caught it until my friend from Temperance, Michigan had a weird combination between "nasal" and "Appalachian."  That might be true.  Dayton, generally, has two kinds of accents: Appalachian and "Standard Midwest."  The Appalachian accent can be heard heavily on the city's east side and eastern suburbs (and some southern ones) while the standard Midwest ones are in the southern and even places like Troy and Englewood.  Cincinnati, linguistically, is also a double:  "Westsider Twang" and "Eastsider Proper" if that makes any sense.  I-75 is amazing in terms of how areas are just split up; granted, there are eastsiders with twang and westsiders with proper, but this is just a generalization.

 

Interestingly, Mansfield is perhaps the only city in Ohio where I've met people that sound straight UP southern on a continuous basis.  And that is 45 min north of Columbus (oy!).

 

I wouldn't say Dayton is "no different" from other Midwestern cities regarding ethnicity. The Midwest can basically be cut in two. The Great Lakes cities are similar (and I count Buffalo in this) and then there's what I call the "True Midwest" which includes everything else.

 

Arguably, Dayton has a "Great Lakes" feel as well, in terms of architecture, working-class, and Burnham-style boulevards.  Cincinnati is an anomoly, mainly due to history (of it being older than the Great Lakes; re: Pittsburgh).

 

In general, the Great Lakes cities have a higher percentage of Latinos,

 

Actually, Kansas and Kansas City have a very high percentage of Latinos, as does Omaha and those Great Plains cities.

 

higher percentage of Catholics,

 

I believe the Cincinnati-Dayton Archdiocese is one of the largest in the nation.

 

and higher percentage from the Middle East and Mediterranean than the other midwestern cities.

 

I would just say Detroit ;).

 

Germans and English are populous pretty much everywhere, but a place like Nati really shows a strong heritage to this day. I'm shocked to hear there is no German restaurant in Dayton!! I find that hard to believe, but I'll take your word for it Jeff. I just figured every larger city had at least one. 

 

Dayton may have little German pubs/bars but on a whole, it does not have a large or decent German restaurant.  Dayton is definately a steak/potatoes type of town (with good Indian :D).

 

Dayton's connection to Cincinnati and the south gives the region a nice mix of culture overall, but there are certainly differences when compared to the Great Lakes cities. I actually think Dayton is more of the northern/southern mix than Nati is (as I consider Nati the south),

 

I would say opposite.  Cincinnati never really embraced the South (if anything, it shunned it) while Dayton was an Appalachian magnet.  But then again, it's arguable that Appalachian equates with the south (as West Virginia and Kentucky are both "MidSouth" or maybe their own region).  Columbus also had a high immigration of Appalachian and I'd argue that Columbus is probably just as southern (if not more) than Dayton.  Particularly, the city's west and south sides.

 

but this is just my opinion. I see the strong Polish and Hungarian roots as more of a Great Lakes characteristic, and then a lot of other things seem "southern" (accents, religion, etc.). Any other thoughts?

 

Religion throughout Ohio seems pretty steady.  All of Ohio has a large Catholic fanbase with other protestant groups around.  Though I do assoc. eastern European with the Great Lakes (along with the horrendous nasal accent and wood-frame A's).

Wow, thanks for the education in culture and history on Ohio.  You just saved me a semester in mid-western culture.  I look forward to moving there even more now.  I will be there permanently on Nov. 3rd so I'll just miss the fun Halloween festivities.  Darn!  Maybe next year. 

 

I guess with my own Southern/Cajun accent, I will fit right in after all.  Everyone will think I am a foreigner while I will have to keep a straight face if I hear the slightest hint of a "Fargo" style accent.  Just kidding of course. 

 

Louisiana is full of African-American, Latino, French, and its own Appalachian roots (hence our own capital city Baton Rouge which means "red stick").  My reason for bringing the topic up was for simply the sole purpose of my curiosity.  I want to immerse myself totally in the culture there and write about my experiences (I long to be a published writer). 

 

This forum is great.  Keep the thoughts flowing...i'm digging it!

 

Just wanted to add that I think it's funny to hear anything in Ohio claiming to be Southern.  I only say this because I have a very good friend that is a former Louisiana History teacher.  She is a true Southern Belle and tells me that anything above the Mason Dixon line is not truly Southern. However, my response to her was that as long as the hospitality felt "southern" in Ohio, then that was all I cared about.  And so far, I have felt the Southern hospitality in this forum - you all have been very helpful.  So thanks!  :clap:

hey lady re the dialect thing. something of major surprise to me was that i have met people here and there in dayton whom i could not understand a word they said. waaay thick appalachian accent like i did not even ever hear living in kentucky. i'd imagine similar in a way to deep cajun country.

 

speaking of, someone from new orleans is going to find the whole appalachian subculture interesting. it is neither northern nor southern, but a distinct culture of its own that sadly seems to suffer an identity crisis. again, it is an as interesting and unique part of the usa as is cajun culture.

 

one other language/culture thing, there is a little piece of trivia known as tiffin english -- this is supposedly the nw ohio-based flat speech dialect national broadcasters use. eh, mildly interesting!

Well..when we say "south" we really mean "Appalachia", as ColDayMan noted.

 

 

Columbus also had a high immigration of Appalachian and I'd argue that Columbus is probably just as southern (if not more) than Dayton.  Particularly, the city's west and south sides.

 

Indeed..Dwight Yoakams home town.

 

"Reading Writing Route 23"

They learned readin', writin', Route 23

To the jobs that lay waiting in those cities' factories

They learned readin', writin', roads to the north

To the luxury and comfort a coal miner can't afford

They thought readin', writin', Route 23

Would take them to the good life that they had never seen

They didn't know that old highway

Could lead them to a world of misery

 

Have you ever been down Kentucky-way

Say south of Prestonburg

Have you ever been up in a holler

Have you ever heard

A mountain man cough his life away

From diggin' that black coal

In those dark mines, those dark mines

If you had you might just understand

The reason that they left is all behind

 

Chorus:

They learned readin', wrightin', Route 23

To the jobs that lay waitin' in those cities' factories

They learned readin', writin', roads to the north

To the luxury and comfort a coal miner can't afford

They thought readin', writin', Route 23

Would take them to the good life that they had never seen

They didn't know that old highway

Could lead them to a world of misery

 

Have you ever seen 'em

Put the kids in the car after work on Friday night

Pull up in a holler about 2 a.m.

And see a light still shinin' bright

Those mountain folks sat up that late

Just to hold those little grandkids

In their arms, in their arms

And I'm proud to say that I've been blessed

And touched by their sweet hillbilly charm

 

Chorus:

They learned readin', writin', Route 23

To the jobs that lay waiting in those cities' factories

They learned readin', writin', roads to the north

To the luxury and comfort a coal miner can't afford

They thought readin', writin', Route 23

Would take them to the good life that they had never seen

They didn't know that old highway

Could lead them to a world of misery

 

Yeah, it turns out that that old highway,

Leads you to a world of misery

 

They found out that that old highway

Leads you to a world of misery...

 

....that little mention of Prestonsburg.  Well, I know a few folks in Dayton with that connection....and Route 23 is or was also High Street in downtown Columbus.

 

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A bit more to give you that appalachian feel in Dayton.

 

Radio

 

WBZI AM 1500 plays country oldies, but also does a drive-time 3-5 PM bluegrass show (hosted by Joe Mullins, the son of a local bluegrass legend) on weekdays.  A bit cornpone (especially the folksy adverstising), but its a pretty authentic represenation of the "mountain south" influence in the Dayton area...

WBZI Radio

 

From the Virginia mountains by way of Harvard comes Fred Bartenstein, who hosts a Saturday night bluegrass show on WYSO FM 93.7 ..Banks of the Ohio...Freds show is more "educational" as this is public radio, and is sort of a musical hisotry of the genre through various periods....

 

Music.

 

These shows will turn you on to concerts and venues, which are sometimes in unlikely places like bingo halls and VFW posts....

 

Yet, for live music with an appalachian Ohio twist a must-see would be the annual show by the Dry Branch Fire Squad.  This band is  does orginal compositions, traditional numbers, and now covers by modern and new upcoming artists like Si Kahn and Gillian Welch.  They till the musical fields of old-time music moving into bluegrass and more contemporary folk, so you'll hear John Henry, Stephen Foster's "Hard Times" as well as Si Khan's "Aragon Mill" in their repetoire, as well as home-made songs about local events like the great Xenia Tornado (which you will hear about when you get here).

 

This is a touring band but they come back to Dayton for a concert around New Years at the Canal Street Tavern.  Imagine a cozy music bar in an old factory neighborhood on a cold winters night, packed with people ....listening to an excellent collection of new and old tunes, and also bandleader Roy Thomasons very droll repartee between songs. 

 

Worth the money and braving the crowd as they really are that good (at least if you like this kind of music)

 

Dry Branch Fire Squad

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For a "home-made" take on public radio in the Dayton areaa there is WDPS 89.5, which is sort of a teaching station for the Dayton school district...which defaults to Christian programming on off-hours.

 

Yet wedged in there are these three interesting shows.

 

Fridays 3PM to 430 PM  "A Right Song and Dance", which is music from the British Isles...Ireland, Scotland, England, and occasionally some from Wales.  Folk and folk-rock sounds.  Im a regular listner to this one as im a big fan of this kind of music.

 

Saturdays 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM, an unnamed German language show...hosted by what sounds like two housewives and occasionaly "Dieter" (not the one from Sprockets), which is a show of "schlager" (German language pop music, occasionally some other things)...which does announcements from the three German clubs in the town...the Eintracht, the Edelweiss, and the Liderkranz-Turner, and also the Czechoslovakian club (they have alot of polka dances at the Czech club, it seems).

 

Sundays 9:00 AM to Noon, a Hungarian show.  This is really strange music to my ears....they do a mix of what sounds like trad music occassionally mixed in with Hungarian pop, and last weekend they did excerpts from a Hungarian light operetta.

 

Anyway, some  of the very non-standard musical offerings available on the Dayton airwaves.  I think WDPS also does jazz and R&B music, and they also have an Friday afternoon "world music " show that does oddiites like arabic rap.

 

 

 

 

 

Everyone will think I am a foreigner while I will have to keep a straight face if I hear the slightest hint of a "Fargo" style accent.

I'm having a hard time not laughing up here in Wisconsin.  Don't worry, you won't hear traces of that accent in Dayton except from the occasional misplaced northern Ohioan or Michigander, etc.  Speaking of which, you will be required to hate Michigan and everything it stands for.

 

WBZI AM 1500 plays country oldies, but also does a drive-time 3-5 PM bluegrass show (hosted by Joe Mullins, the son of a local bluegrass legend) on weekdays.  A bit cornpone (especially the folksy adverstising), but its a pretty authentic represenation of the "mountain south" influence in the Dayton area...

WBZI Radio

A number of years ago my parents had Moon Mullins doing some of that folksy advertising on his radio station, and they say they could always tell which customers had heard about their store because of that... by counting the number of teeth and so forth. :-D  (I know, it's mean to joke about, but it must have been true!)  I feel like I may have posted that little anecdote in the past... sorry if I'm repeating myself.

Or as my buddy down here at LSU tells us.

Anyone from north of I-10 is a yankee.

Four words come to my mind when it comes to Dayton music:

 

                                              Isley Brothers

                                              Ohio Players

 

 

As for all things Michigan: learn the difference between Univ. of Mich and Michigan State. Only hate things maize and blue related.

Some of your fellow forumers have divided loyalties (The Pope and myself included. {side note to the Pope: Will L.B. Patterson ever forgive me?})

 

November 5th?  Someone recommend a place for her to buy a parka ...

 

And a side note on religion: Central Ohio has traditionally had the highest per capita population of Methodists of any place in the country. Not exactly holy rollers ...

 

 

 

 

...Cleveland Native, living (Up North to you) in Arkansas.

 

November 5th?  Someone recommend a place for her to buy a parka ...

 

In Dayton it would have to be General Surplus.  Yes, they did tear down some of the last canal era buildings for a parking lot, but it still is the real deal for a locally owned "outfitters" for warm outdoorsy clothes (plust their occasional "Warsaw Pact Buyout" military surplus items..... )

Is it already that cold in November there?  Have mercy, it's just now getting into the '70s here during the day and upper 60s in the a.m.  I will need some sweaters and a heavier coat - guess I'll wait until our apt hunting trip there instead of raiding local department stores here.  How cold does it typically get there in that part of Ohio? Friend of a friend told us we will see snow but it's not typical to get a blizzard or snow so bad you get trapped in your home for days.  My husband lived in New Jersey for three years so he'll be fine, but it will be an adjustment for me.  I won't miss Louisiana humidity though.

 

On another topic....we southerners are always thinking of food... can you recommend any good casual breakfast places or brunch restaurants?  Since breakfast is so overlooked during the work week, we like to frequent breakfast outings on our weekend....places that have omelets, bacon, pancakes, and coffee galore.  Something more down-home and unique than a Denny's or I-HOP.  Jeff, if you mentioned a place and I overlooked it, please forgive me.

 

Getting off topic again...checked out the Dayton Dragons website.  I bet we would enjoy a game but it does sound like it won't be easy to get a good seat.  What a different scenario for us who could walk up to a Zephyrs game and still get a seat behind the dugout the night of the game.  Dragons must have better seasons than Zephyrs.  I'm not much of a sports fan and hate to watch it on TV, but I have always loved baseball.  Hopefully in 2006, we can make a weekend trip to a Reds or Indians game.  Who are the big rivals in sports there?  It was in college, LSU vs. Auburn and Ole Miss or professional,The Saints vs anyone (since they were such losers). 

 

Any hockey in Dayton the area?  I went to a few short-lived hockey games and found them interesting. 

 

How easy is it crossing into Canada from Ohio?  Forgive my ignorance, but do you need a passport?  I know it's not Mexico's borders but was just curious since friends are saying to visit the winter wonderland of Canada after I get settled. 

 

Sorry to be jumping all over the place....suffering a bit of insomnia since the hurricane.  Looking forward to settling down soon.

 

 

 

Are you a good swimmer?

Canada is across Lake Erie from Ohio. You will have to go to Detroit and head South, or to Niagara Falls and head West.

Since 9/11, travel to Canada has tightened up. Passport is helpful, but you have to show US citizenship. Ease or difficulty depends a lot on the individual border guard. I've had a-holes on the American side, but not crossing into Canada. Leave your stash at home ...

 

 

^The dragons haven't had the best seasons recently, but its more of an expierience than a game. They do little acts/promos during all the inning breaks which are mostly entertaining. Its a smaller ballpark and thus more intimate. There really arn't bad seats in the stadium.The Dayton area is just so proud of the team, they come no matter what happens.

 

If your going to be a Dragons fan, then you must be a Reds fan. Cleveland is much further away than Cincy.

 

As far as hockey, Daytons has the Bombers. They play at the Nutter Center, which is actually up by WPAFB in the Fairfield Commons area. I went to several of their games a while back and they are enjoyable.

 

As for the cold and snow, we see -20's only a couple of nights a year. As far as snow, some years we get bombarded with little storms almost every week in January and February, and sometimes you see just a couple little storms or nothing. Sometimes the local counties issue snow levels, which inform residents to stay off the roads or only use them in emergency, but never for more than a few hours or so. What Ohioans hate the most are sissy Southerners always worried about driving in the snow and thinking they should get to stay home from work. Don't be one of them. Just take it slow and steady, you are allowed to be late.

 

As far as breakfast, try the Golden Nugget in Kettering. Its kind of a crummy place, but it reminds me of a resturant we ate at in Atlanta, very Southern. You will have trouble finding grits around here thats for sure.

 

 

Is it already that cold in November there?  Have mercy, it's just now getting into the '70s here during the day and upper 60s in the a.m.  I will need some sweaters and a heavier coat - guess I'll wait until our apt hunting trip there instead of raiding local department stores here.  How cold does it typically get there in that part of Ohio? Friend of a friend told us we will see snow but it's not typical to get a blizzard or snow so bad you get trapped in your home for days.  My husband lived in New Jersey for three years so he'll be fine, but it will be an adjustment for me.  I won't miss Louisiana humidity though.

 

Oh it's an adjustment.  This first winter will be the worst for you (especially since you've never been in Ohio)

For 4 months you will wear nothing but long sleave shirts 24/7 (well... maybe not in bed) and you'll still be cold.

Each region of Ohio gets at least one heavy snow storm (In the case of Cleveland, twice a month for half a year).  You should get at least two nights below zero.

 

Getting off topic again...checked out the Dayton Dragons website.  I bet we would enjoy a game but it does sound like it won't be easy to get a good seat.  What a different scenario for us who could walk up to a Zephyrs game and still get a seat behind the dugout the night of the game.  Dragons must have better seasons than Zephyrs.  I'm not much of a sports fan and hate to watch it on TV, but I have always loved baseball.  Hopefully in 2006, we can make a weekend trip to a Reds or Indians game.  Who are the big rivals in sports there?  It was in college, LSU vs. Auburn and Ole Miss or professional,The Saints vs anyone (since they were such losers). 

Any hockey in Dayton the area?  I went to a few short-lived hockey games and found them interesting. 

 

College - Michigan vs Ohio State, Univ. Cincinnati vs Xavier {whatever became of Xavier of New Orleans}

Pro Football - Cincinnati, Cleveland, Pittsburgh, and Baltimore (with Cleveland)

Baseball - Cleveland vs Yankees, maybe the White Sox (since Wild Card era); for Cincinnati, maybe the Cubs and/or Cardinals.  LA and Cincy used to be rivals during the 70s.

Concerning minor league baseball,  the Dragons stadium is downtown, vs the Zyphers is out in suburbia (on US 90), that has helped keep the Dragons fans.

As Ink mentioned, there is minor league hockey in Dayton, and Pro games in Columbus (don't know the price for them however)

 

How easy is it crossing into Canada from Ohio?  Forgive my ignorance, but do you need a passport?  I know it's not Mexico's borders but was just curious since friends are saying to visit the winter wonderland of Canada after I get settled. 

 

I believe passports are to be manditory for crossing into Canada by 2007 (if not next year).  Right now, I hear some reports that people need passports to get back into the states, and other reports that you don't.

 

Sorry to be jumping all over the place....suffering a bit of insomnia since the hurricane.  Looking forward to settling down soon.

^Xavier doesn't have a Football team, but as far as basketball rivalries UC vs. Xavier reigns supreme!

Since breakfast is so overlooked during the work week, we like to frequent breakfast outings on our weekend....places that have omelets, bacon, pancakes, and coffee galore.  Something more down-home and unique than a Denny's or I-HOP.  Jeff, if you mentioned a place and I overlooked it, please forgive me.

 

The Breakfast Club (south of downtown) has an excellent breakfast as do the two Golden Nugget locations (one on north Dixie; one on south Dixie).

New Orleans Lady, it looks as if everyone has given you some excellent information about Dayton, so there really isn't much that I can add, but I would just like to say welcome.  Also, as you visit Dayton and move here, please share your impressions of area, as it is always interesting to hear an outsider's perspective.

 

Since breakfast is so overlooked during the work week, we like to frequent breakfast outings on our weekend....places that have omelets, bacon, pancakes, and coffee galore.  Something more down-home and unique than a Denny's or I-HOP.  Jeff, if you mentioned a place and I overlooked it, please forgive me.

 

The Breakfast Club (south of downtown) has an excellent breakfast as do the two Golden Nugget locations (one on north Dixie; one on south Dixie).

 

I second the Breakfast Club.  As for the Golden Nugget, I believe the south location is still closed because of a large fire a while back.  Also, a couple of other breakfast places I enjoy are First Watch (a small chain) and the breakfast buffet at the Marriott...but certainly neither of those are "down-home" type places.

I have to put my vote in for the Nugget.  Hopefully the S Dixie location gets up and running again.  That was my fav breakfast place when I lived in Dayton and I've yet to find one I like more.

To everyone - thanks so much for the replies!  I haven't been on this site for a week - been so busy packing.  I am making my first trip to Dayton this Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday to apartment hunt.  I will check out one or more of the breakfast places you mentioned. 

 

I guess I should bring a jacket and layer myself for the trip.  I have a lot of winter clothes shopping to do once i get there. 

 

It's been emotional saying good bye to friends, co-workers, and family.  I have a wonderful network of friends who shower me with attention and gifts (like my boss today who gave me a beautiful Fleur de Lis necklace as a constant reminder of New Orleans) But I am really looking forward to moving to Dayton. 

 

I know it will be an environmental and cultural shock for me going from such a Southern background to the midwest, but I know I will do great there since I am a very determined and hardworking individual. 

 

As you suggested on writing down my experiences in Ohio, I do intend to do so.  I actually hope to obtain a job with The Dayton Daily News or one of the other Ohio Cox Publications since I am a writer and editor at heart.  I'd love to write about my experiences - I could be a mystery shopper and food critic going around the new city comparing my experiences to the New Orleans famous cuisine and festivities.  If you have any contacts with local publications looking for a reporter, writer, editor, or even an advertising person, let me know. 

 

Dayton here I come on Monday.... and then again permanently in just ten days....

You know, if you ever need a tour of the city, metropolitan area, or the region, you can simply Private Message me on this forum.  And you can ask other forumers who have toured with me (if you are aprehensive).

Holiday festivals talk....

 

I received an Ohio travel and tourism book in the mail that I ordered off the visitor's bureau website.... yes, I know I am a cheezy tourist already.  I see the Dayton and surrounding cities have a multitude of holiday festivals with Christmas lights, ice skating, and more.  My husband and I will want to find something fun to do for Thanksgiving and Christmas as we will be away from our families. 

 

Are there any particular events or festivals that you recommend we stop in for?  In New Orleans, we went to city park's Christmas lights where you can walk through the park or drive through them.  We also did a Christmas brunch with family at a local restaurant favorite. 

 

If you have any fun things that you and your families enjoy, please share them...

 

 

 

 

Thanksgiving to Christmas is a hellish time for my family (my parents own a retail store), so we don't really ever get to actual events and I can't help you there.  However, for Christmas lights you can check out Clifton Mill.  Here's their web page with a bit of info and a few pictures of the insane number of lights.  I vaguely recall other Christmas light things (Eastwood Park, maybe?), but it's been a long time.  There may be some Christmas-y things downtown, too, but I don't really know.

 

And consider the Icefest suggestion hereby seconded!

Clifton Mill is beautiful!

 

BTW, NO Lady, bring as much jacket/sweater/coat type stuff as you can.  It's supposed to be in the low to mid 50s for a stretch and in the 30s at night.  It's going to be gray and rainy a good deal of the time.  Not the best weather to come to Ohio, but at least you'll know what to expect.

Thanks for invite ColDayMan - I will keep that in mind after we get settled in. 

 

Never in my life did I think I would be someplace close to see ice sculpture carving competition but wow, that is the coolest thing I have ever seen (no pun intended).  I will definitely put that on the agenda of things to do in January and will check out Clifton Mill in late November as well. 

 

I won't have access to internet for a few days but I'll let you know my first impression of Dayton (rainy, gloom, and all) when I get back.  Maybe I will get a few good pics while there to share on the photo forum but mine probably won't be as good as PigBoy and Jeff's. 

 

Alright boys, I may be seeing you soon.  I'm packing for the 3-day trip and watching the movie "A Christmas Story" right now.  It's making me anticipate my first REAL snow this winter....

I should get the ColDayMan tour one of these days...

Alright boys, I may be seeing you soon.  I'm packing for the 3-day trip and watching the movie "A Christmas Story" right now.  It's making me anticipate my first REAL snow this winter....

 

It didn't get out of the 70s in Baton Rouge today for the first time in.....7 months.

I'm back from Dayton - it was a wet, gloomy welcome weather-wise, but a satisfactory trip nonetheless.  I'll keep this short as I am exhausted from the trip. 

 

I don't think my husband and I could have jam-packed any more into one day.  We apartment-hunted, found one, signed a lease, found a storage unit, met with recruiters, took a city tour, ate breakfast, lunch, and dinner out, stared at trees, etc. etc.  It was a very productive trip.  I know I am going to love Dayton.  I like it already.  The most obvious, lovely differences between New Orleans and Dayton is that #1 - Dayton is a clean city and has no stench, #2 - the Dayton roads are so nice - no narrow lanes, no pot-holes, and no people with road rage (at least none that we say anyway), and #3 - Dayton has a real fall with beautifully colored trees and rolling hills.  NOLA is just flat and isn't even green anymore thanks to Katrina. 

 

We didn't have much time to select restaurants that some of you recommended but we did stumble upon or was taken to these three places, which were all quite good - breakfast at The Original Pancake House in Centerville (great blueberry pancakes and coffee!), lunch at Longhorn in Beavercreek, and dinner at Smokey Bone's near the airport.  All were great and different than what we have been to before. 

 

My husband's recruiter took us for a city tour - I saw glimpses of downtown Dayton, the Oregon district, Dragon Stadium, beautiful homes along Oakwood, technology centers in Beavercreek and near Wright Patt, and we drove past dozens of strip centers and shopping malls around the area.  Our tour guide was Dayton born and raised so we felt like we were given a nice overview of the city.  There was light traffic and every place only took about fifteen minutes to get to - a welcome change to our current situation. 

 

We took no pictures - too wet and gloomy.  Well, I'll write more later.  I'm exhausted.  I can't wait to be there next week permanently.  Thanks again to you all.

 

Yeah, the weather was certainly crappy, but glad to hear your trip went well.  I can understand why you are tired...it sounds like you covered a lot!  In regards to potholes....just wait until this winter.  :)

 

Best of luck with the move.

Good news!  What area is the apartment in?

 

You know, I'd never considered the "no stench" angle.  That should be in Dayton's advertising slogan! :-D

 

And Dayton's got an actual fall for sure, but after looking at the Baraboo Hills in Wisconsin this year, I'm starting to think fall in Dayton looks like crap by comparison.  (To say nothing of New England, of course, which has got everyone beat.)

Glad you had a wonderful time.

 

Again, need a tour, just PM me.

Hi all,

 

You probably thought I got lost some where in the Kentucky valley while moving here, but no sir!  I am back.  After weeks of no internet service, no cable televison, and no phone service, I am finally connected in again.  It's nice to be back.  :)

 

The drive from Louisiana to Ohio was beautiful, especially driving through Tennessee and Kentucky.  If only my damn cat would have shut up and quit meowing for half the commute.  He's adjusting now though - after all, he is Garfield's cousin: a fat, orange, hungry tabby cat that just wants to be loved.

 

Well, I am liking Ohio so far.  The area of Ohio that we are in (Centerville/Miamisburg) is really beautiful.  I’m getting used to my ears popping as I am driving up and down these hilly roads.  The scenery is great.  My husband and I are adjusting to apartment living – going from a four bedroom home to a two bedroom apartment is a big change.  Slowly but surely, it is feeling like home. 

 

So far the people here are very friendly.  Everyone has seemed to notice we are not from here – they say we have an accent.  Go figure!  The customer service here is phenomenal.  Every restaurant and retailer wants us to fill out satisfaction surveys and they want you to be happy with your service, food, products, etc.  That is a change from the “I don’t care” attitude we are used to around New Orleans. 

 

My husband started the job at Wright-Patt this week and so far it’s been just paperwork and introductions but hopefully he will be diving into the technical, geeky stuff soon because that is what makes him happy.  I believe he is working on firewall-sidewinder stuff. 

 

I have gone on two interviews so far and am awaiting callbacks and pursuing other opportunities too.  I interviewed in Cincinnati.  It was only about 30 miles from my place so I guess it's a doable commute but a job in the Dayton area would be so much nicer.

 

I wish I could get a writing job here.  What are local newsletters, magazines, or other publications that get circulated around town here?  In NOLA, we had New Orleans Magazine, The Gambit Weekly, and many others that you could get copies of in coffee shops. 

 

If you have any suggestions to the local media that I can tapp into, please send your suggestions my way

 

The weather here has been pretty mild, even seen some 70's so I haven’t pulled out the big coat yet but I’m sure that may change in a month or so.  It will be an interesting winter and holiday season but I am looking forward to a change and a fresh start.

 

Funny story – my husband and I ate at a free-standing Chick-Fil-A restaurant over the weekend.  We sat down to eat, and all of a sudden the entire wait staff yells at the same time “EAT MORE CHICKEN” which as know is their slogan.  They all shouted and clapped after they said that.  Isn’t that weird?  We never saw people so happy to work in fast food before.  Maybe it isn't that funny, but we sure thought it was.

 

It’s like being in a toned down version of the movie “Pleasantville” here thus far.  Several people have hugged my husband and I when we tell them we are from Louisiana and are Hurricane Katrina victims.  If only I could use that to my advantage to get a job!  :) 

 

It has been fun driving around town (and getting lost too), finding the places that many of you suggested in previous posts - saw the First Watch restaurant mentioned, and several of the downtown places too.  Thanks again for all the suggestions.  I intend to play tourist soon but need to first finish unpacking boxes. 

 

We found a Wal-mart that carried a few New Orleans food items, including Zataraine's.  I was able to cook jambalaya this week.  We're still looking for Blue Runner Red Beans.  If we can't find it locally, we'll hit Jungle Jim's eventually or have family send care packages of goodies.

 

So anyway, we like it here and look forward to what the future holds.

 

Well I could say more, but I don’t want to bore you. 

 

From the New Orleans Lady turned Ohioan - who would have thought!

 

Well good for you!

 

Again, if you need a tour, just PM me.