Hi folks.

 

I'm moving to Cleveland soon and won't have time for a thorough housing search-just a couple of days and that's it. I have a few questions about the downtown area that'll help narrow the effort. First, the requested info:

 

Looking for a 1 bedroom rental, $650-$850 range, loft preferred, historic or stylish apt OK. Reverse commuter-job is past Independence, but I'm not interested in the suburbs. Shaker Heights and Coventry, although seemingly what I'm looking for in terms of culturally diversity, appears to be too inconvenient from a traffic perspective.

 

The only real amenity I'm interested in is public or common space, where I can meet people or hang out and people watch. Coffee shops a plus. Casual bars and cool hipster places are OK, but definitely NOT a fan of the big dance clubs. I'm single, straight, and social.

 

Here are the questions:

 

How is traffic in the Gateway/Theater District? Do you have to avoid the streets on game nights? What is the state of the proposed large-scale construction projects by the Flats, and has that affected traffic?

 

How bad is downtown crime, really? I've lived in other downtown areas and have a basic idea of what to expect. Have the recent shootings had any effect? Is the Warehouse District on the upswing or sliding downwards?

 

Is it considered "safe" for someone living in the Theater District to walk to the Warehouse District, or vice versa?

 

Is there any area that normally hosts public and community events?

 

Places like Tremont are described as "walking communities". Do people really walk there to go to various destinations, or does the term just describe a more suburban and de-centralized setting?

 

Is the Tower Press Lofts (1900 Superior) too far from downtown to walk at night?

 

What is the condition of the bike trails, if any, and are they safe?

 

Is bicycling downtown or in the "walking communities" a common sight? Could I ride a junker around and lock it up without returning a couple of hours later to find the tires slashed or the rims bent? (once or twice a year would be expected, just not once or twice a month)

 

I get mixed reviews all the time about various areas, or that one area is good but it borders a bad area, etc. Just tell me flat-out, what are the bad areas or streets to be avoided in the neighborhoods bordered by Lakewood on the west, the Heights on the east, and within 480?

 

Finally, I plan on having a backup suburban apt ready if the downtown areas aren't appealling. Are there any suburban communities around the Brecksville Reservation/Cuyahoga Valley National Park area that will suffice as far as culture and entertainment goes?

 

Thanks in advance!

well damn..........

Welcome to the forum! I'll try to address each question as best I can:

 

 

Looking for a 1 bedroom rental, $650-$850 range, loft preferred, historic or stylish apt OK. Reverse commuter-job is past Independence, but I'm not interested in the suburbs. Shaker Heights and Coventry, although seemingly what I'm looking for in terms of culturally diversity, appears to be too inconvenient from a traffic perspective."

 

Your price range should land you something decent in most areas (and likely on the nicer side), including downtown. Keep in mind that parking fees generally apply to most downtown spots and you'll want to park your car indoors if possible. I've heard positive feedback about the following in the Warehouse District: Bingham, Bridgeview and Perry-Payne; the Osborn and Huron Square in Gateway. I have heard not-so-good things about the National Terminal Building. Places in Tremont tend to be more along the lines of doubles or rental homes, rather than apartment complexes. The good thing about Tremont for your commute is that you can shoot right down West 14th to access the Jennings Freeway (176) and you'll be on I-480 in about 5 minutes. For a good overall look at rental prices in different areas check out http://www.pluggedincleveland.com/rentals/

 

"The only real amenity I'm interested in is public or common space, where I can meet people or hang out and people watch. Coffee shops a plus. Casual bars and cool hipster places are OK, but definitely NOT a fan of the big dance clubs. I'm single, straight, and social."

 

It sounds like the Market Square area in Ohio City would suit your tastes, as would Tremont.

 

"How is traffic in the Gateway/Theater District? Do you have to avoid the streets on game nights?"

 

I've seen it gridlocked, particularly around Jacobs Field and the Q when events are happening at both.

 

"What is the state of the proposed large-scale construction projects by the Flats, and has that affected traffic?"

 

Flats East Bank is still in the proposal stage, so no traffic affected. West Bank construction like Stonebridge hasn't really affected traffic there at all.

 

"How bad is downtown crime, really? I've lived in other downtown areas and have a basic idea of what to expect. Have the recent shootings had any effect? Is the Warehouse District on the upswing or sliding downwards? Is it considered "safe" for someone living in the Theater District to walk to the Warehouse District, or vice versa?"

 

It's not bad, although as with any city you wouldn't want to leave valuables in your car overnight. The Warehouse District, even with some recent incidents is still relatively safe. There have been some isolated issues with certain bars that attract drunkards, but in general it's not bad. Keep in mind that the Downtown Cleveland Alliance Ambassadors are available to escort you to your car (or residence in the District). I know some people don't care to live there because of noise (nightlife) issues.  Walking from Playhouse Square to the Warehouse District would be fine, provided the weather permits.

 

Is there any area that normally hosts public and community events?

 

Almost all the neighborhoods have events, particularly during the summer.

 

"Places like Tremont are described as "walking communities". Do people really walk there to go to various destinations, or does the term just describe a more suburban and de-centralized setting?"

 

My S.O. lives in Tremont and (weather permitting), we'll walk from his place to any of the bars/restaurants. Note, due to Tremont's location (bordered by the industrial valley and the highways), it's a little more isolated from downtown than say, Ohio City.

 

"Is the Tower Press Lofts (1900 Superior) too far from downtown to walk at night?"

 

Not really, but it's a schlep. 

 

"What is the condition of the bike trails, if any, and are they safe? Is bicycling downtown or in the "walking communities" a common sight? Could I ride a junker around and lock it up without returning a couple of hours later to find the tires slashed or the rims bent? (once or twice a year would be expected, just not once or twice a month)"

 

I'm not a cyclist (though I am car-free), so I'll let someone else take these questions.

 

"I get mixed reviews all the time about various areas, or that one area is good but it borders a bad area, etc. Just tell me flat-out, what are the bad areas or streets to be avoided in the neighborhoods bordered by Lakewood on the west, the Heights on the east, and within 480?"

 

On the west, the neighborhoods tend to be nicest as you get closer to the Lake. I'd advise anything north of Detroit (Clifton, Lake, Edgewater) and west of West Blvd. I advise against anything (or at least really do your homework) south of Detroit in the West 70s-90s. As far as the Tremont area, I'd suggest anything east of I-90/I-71. In Ohio City, the areas north of Lorain and east of West 45th tend to be better-kept.

 

I hope that helps as a start :)

Cycling is a pretty common sight in my opinion, especially with the bike messengers flying all over downtown. Just today I saw a brave soul withstanding the cold.

 

Things to keep in mind about cycling in downtown: For the most part, it's all about vehicular cycling. You have to be willing to ride with traffic that isn't used to cyclists. There aren't many bike lanes, and people aren't always watching. There are bike lanes going west into Ohio City and I believe Lakewood is aiming to create some bike lanes, as well.

 

Anywhere you're going to find a bike trail is going to be pretty safe...They are all in the suburbs in metroparks! =)

 

Cycling in Lakewood is very common. There are a lot of commuters, casual exercise folks and hardcore roadies here. I plan on getting a beater next summer to commute to food/shopping, etc.

just to confirm your suspicions about Commuting From either Cleveland Heights or Shaker Square to Independence and Points South blows. 30-45 minutes daily for the commute.

 

I lived in both while commuting to Independence, I did not enjoy it.

If you don't want to drive or own a car at all, you may be able to take transit to your work site in Independence, depending on where it is (and where you ultimately choose to live). All RTA buses have bike racks on them.

 

If you choose to live downtown, the 77F is a fast, frequent route. Rather than meandering down city streets, it takes I-77 and Route 21 into Independence, and also avoids the very congested interchange of I-77/Rockside. Reverse rush-hour runs are every 15 minutes, and travel from downtown to Independence in about 13-20 minutes. Buses run until 11 p.m. weeknights, but only to 8 p.m. weekends.

 

Here's the schedule/map: http://www.riderta.com/pdf/77.pdf

 

There's also a new, limited-schedule bus service designed just for reverse commutes from downtown to the I-77/Rockside area, which helps cut down on the walking from the Route 21/Rockside intersection. Its schedule/map is available at: http://www.riderta.com/pdf/17.pdf

 

I hopes this helps you in deciding on a place to live.

not to contradict you KJP, but have you ever thought of riding a bike on Rockside Road? lord knows I never would.

Yes, I have. Riding the long hill down on Rockside, from Route 21 to the CVSR station at the bottom, you get to overtake cars and give them dirty looks for getting in your way! In the opposite direction, motorists take pity on you.

 

West of Route 21, ever since Rockside was widened to three lanes in each direction (plus the center turn), it's not as congested as it was before. Plus, there's sidewalks now...

i haven't been back since the sidewalks were added. I was a former bus rider down to rockside for frame of reference.

Way to be an ambassador, Mayday!

 

My only bit of advice, being a bartneder and someone who moved to 6 cities in 4 years, is to first decide what neighborhood you like, then take a night to go to a few of the local bars and restuarants.  Let the bartender or server know you are looking for places, and they may know of a gem or two.  Service industry people usually have the scoop on great places for not so much money.  If it works out, you not only have a new place, but you will get to know a few people in the neighborhood in the process.  It usually works.

 

 

It's nice to hear from people moving to the area -- welcome Subclavius!

 

Working in Independence, I'd recommend living downtown, and it seems like your search is already focused there. As KJP says, the bus trip from downtown to Rockside is lightning fast. I take the 77F all the time to visit my parents in Brecksville; it's probably 10 minutes to Rockside, literally. You couldn't get there any faster driving yourself by car, because the bus basically doesn't stop between Playhouse Square and Rockside.

 

So where downtown to live? The Warehouse District is probably the most vibrant area overall. You asked if it was on the upswing or downswing -- I'd say it's definitely on the upswing, and pretty mature to boot. There's a Starbucks that's open every day, a nice grocery store (Constantino's), a few clothing shops and more restaurants than you could shake a stick at. The downside is that it is pretty rowdy on the weekends as the suburban clubgoers take over. The people who live here are mostly "young professionals" -- lawyers, bankers, etc.

 

If I were to live downtown, I'd probably choose the E. 4th Street neighborhood. It's immediately adjacent to Public Square (and thus myriad transit options). There are a bunch of restaurants and bars, but it's not as clubby as the Warehouse District. I like the finishes on the apartments I've seen here a little better than the WD -- more hardwood floors and historic details left intact. The House of Blues is here for concerts, and there are two coffee shops -- the ubiquitous Starbucks (though it's closed Sundays) and the independent Octane Cafe, which is closed weekends. This area, too, is most definitely on the upswing. There are plans for three more restaurants, and a new bowling alley opens at the end of this month. You're right next door to Tower City, a mall in a 1930 skyscraper. Nearest grocery store is at E. 12th and Chester, inside Reserve Square. It's not nearly as nice as Constantino's but is slated for a makeover and expansion.

 

Playhouse Square has some nice options too, and beautiful building stock. You're adjacent to Cleveland State University here, and in addition to a Starbucks (at E 14th) there's the independent Cafe Ah-Roma coffee shop which stays open weekends, at E. 21st and Euclid. The 77F comes through here, so your bus to work would be right outside your door. A problem with both Playhouse Square and E. 4th is that they can feel a little ghost town-ish on the weekends, at least compared with the Warehouse District, because the office workers aren't around. This is likely to change in the next few years as more apartments come online.

 

Outside downtown, Tremont and Ohio City would be great options if you're willing to either a) add a transfer to your transit commute or b) drive to work. Ohio City has the W. 25th Street/Market Square "Rapid" station, one stop from downtown, on the "Red" rail line that runs between downtown and the airport. You can take the rapid or a number of buses downtown and then transfer to the 77F. I love Ohio City. It's a little more bohemian than anything you'll find downtown, and offers both loft apartments along W. 25th Street and split Victorian houses. The restaurants are great, and you've got the legendary West Side Market for fresh produce, meat and every other food item under the sun, in addition to the full service supermarket Dave's. You can certainly walk to anything you need in Ohio City, provided you live between W. 25th and W. 45th between Lorain and Detroit avenues. There is the wonderful Talkies coffee shop, and some laid back bars (including Market Avenue Wine Bar, Great Lakes and the Bier Markt). The vibe here is activist, granola, policy wonkish. It's a beautiful place.

 

Tremont is where the art hipsters live. It does not have a grocery store, though you're a 5-minute drive to the Dave's and West Side Market in Ohio City. There is a farmer's market in the summer. It has lots of hip bars, lots of art galleries, and probably the most renowned collection of restaurants of any Cleveland neighborhood. The look of the place is more gritty post-industrial, compared with Ohio City's Victorian grace. My favorite coffee shop in the city is here -- Lucky's Cafe. You can certainly walk anywhere you want to go here, too.

 

Crime shouldn't be much of a problem in any of these places, particularly if you are male. The worst that will likely happen is that you'll get panhandled. In Ohio City, I have heard about people getting their cars broken into and plants stolen from their porches, but that's about it. Like any city, you just need to keep your wits about you and be smart.

 

Final point: Don't listen too closely to people who live in the suburbs. They have wildly inaccurate  perceptions about crime in the city. Talk to people who actually live in the neighborhoods you're interested in.

Wow. This has been extremely helpful and I would just like to take the opportunity to thank everyone for contributing so far. Coming from a city noted for it's friendliness and personality I didn't know what to expect in Cleveland, but this is really getting me psyched up and looking forward to the move.

 

Right now I'm arranging a visitation schedule and will spend one day in OC/Tremont and one in the various downtown districts. I'm trying not to have any favorite beforehand, but I feel myself sliding a little towards OC. It seems a little more local, whereas the Warehouse District looks like more of a party destination, and as such may play host to the SUV obsessed suburbanites and Stepford Wives that I'm looking to avoid. Plus, although most would consider me a (slightly offbeat) yuppie, I don't always want to be one 24/7 and OC seems like a place where one can let it hang out a little more often. But yet the Warehouse District seems to be almost everybody's #1 pick for some reason.....and holy crap, I just saw the brunch menu for Lucky's Cafe in Tremont. This is going to be tougher than I thought!

 

There are a lot of rental options on W 25th between Detroit Ave and Train Ave, which seems surprising because this looks like a very active area as far as nightlife is concerned. Is there an issue with the location, like parking or noise?

 

Thanks again, everyone, for the responses. Every city should have a forum like this one. I'll keep you posted on the visit next week and let you know where I end up.

 

 

Just out of curiosity, what city are you coming from?

 

West 25th does have a lot of attractions along it, ranging from public housing to $300,000 condos. Some are within a few hundred feet of each other. But the farther north or south on West 25th Street you go, the "edgier" it gets. Best bet is to stay between Detroit and Lorain avenues. But I'll let the Ohio City residents here give you more specific guidance.

 

Glad we could be of help. But a personal visit will help you decide what's ultimately best for you.

This is like the third newbie to want to move to the Westside.

 

Can the Eastside get some love?!

Seems their new jobs are on the west side, so the east-side marketing machine gets put at a disadvantage from the get-go. Wonder if newcomers taking the new jobs on the east side already know where they want to live?!?! And, I doubt it's a case of no new east-side jobs drawing out-of-towners -- what with the Clinic and all the financial employers in Bitchwood.

I work in the Tower Press Building, and it is a bit of a hike from downtown, but I've done it many a times, including many times at night. The 326 bus line runs right in front of the building, and once you get past E. 17th, there are a number of buses that will carry you to Public Square, the OC or points further west or south. There is a large-scale mixed-use project sprouting up to the west of Tower Press (www.theavenuedistrict.com), a corridor of live-work lofts and galleries adjacent to the building, followed by Cleveland's Asiatown to the east, my neck of the woods. Many people perceive the area as being a little rougher than the western edge of downtown, the OC and Tremont, but I've found it to be quiet and quirky. This area (The Avenue, The Superior Artist Corridor and Asiatown) isn't quite as walkable as some other areas, largely due to the multi-lane east-west thoroughfares that cut through it but that slowly seems to be changing.

 

Cleveland is a city of neighborhoods, and your best bet is to check them out yourself, even if only for a day, before making up your mind. The OC, Tremont, West Bank, Warehouse District, E. 4th Corridor, Playhouse Square, Superior Artist Corridor and Asiatown all have very distinct "flavors" that, depending on your particular background, might be appealing.

 

Depending on the timing of your arrival, you might also check out the Emerging Cleveland tour (www.emergingcleveland.com), which highlights a lot of local up-and-coming development projects and would give you some good initial exposure to Cleveland neighborhoods.

 

Good luck, and welcome to Cleveland!

isn't the tower press building IN downtown?

"This is like the third newbie to want to move to the Westside."

 

No - this is like the third newbie to want to move to Cleveland. :)

 

"Can the Eastside get some love?!"

 

Sure - it can also get the snow that the west side doesn't get :lol:

This is like the third newbie to want to move to the Westside.

 

Can the Eastside get some love?!

 

have you ever tried taking public transportation to Rockside Road from the Heights? Its not fun.

 

Now, back to your square.

"This is like the third newbie to want to move to the Westside."

 

No - this is like the third newbie to want to move to Cleveland. :)

 

"Can the Eastside get some love?!"

 

Sure - it can also get the snow that the west side doesn't get :lol:

 

You're stand corrected MayDay (although, I think your answer warranted the evil queen & tower photo  :laugh:  you know we all get a kick out of that!)

 

And what's wrong with a lil snow??  I happen to like snow  - only on Xmas Eve and Morning!  :evil:

 

 

This is like the third newbie to want to move to the Westside.

 

Can the Eastside get some love?!

 

have you ever tried taking public transportation to Rockside Road from the Heights? Its not fun.

 

Now, back to your square.

Nope, either downtown then a train or bus transfer to my final destination within downtown.

 

I think you're all just envious of the glorious and ultra-fabulous eastside!  :-P

 

 

The eastside is trash.  Utter trash.

 

The west side atleast has Great Lakes Brewing Co.  The eastside has...Hot Sauce Williams.  Again, trash.

and holy crap, I just saw the brunch menu for Lucky's Cafe in Tremont. This is going to be tougher than I thought!

 

There are few things more delicious than their gingerbread waffles.

The eastside is trash.  Utter trash.

 

The west side atleast has Great Lakes Brewing Co.  The eastside has...Hot Sauce Williams.  Again, trash.

 

OH HELL TA THE NAW!

 

Apparently you've been visiting some less than desirable neighborhoods in the Columbus and seriously confusing them with neighborhoods in Cleveland.  That happens when you live in a city (and I use the term loosely, when referring to Columbus) that has "penis envy" in regard to Cleveland.

 

What is this hot sauce williams you speak of??  I've never seen that brand of BBQ Sauce before.

 

....carry on people, carry on!

The eastside is trash.  Utter trash.

 

The west side atleast has Great Lakes Brewing Co.  The eastside has...Hot Sauce Williams.  Again, trash.

 

OH HELL TA THE NAW!

 

Apparently you've been visiting some less than desirable neighborhoods in the Columbus and seriously confusing them with neighborhoods in Cleveland.  That happens when you live in a city (and I use the term loosely, when referring to Columbus) that has "penis envy" in regard to Cleveland.

 

What is this hot sauce williams you speak of??  I've never seen that brand of BBQ Sauce before.

 

....carry on people, carry on!

 

Wait.

 

A). Clevelanders come to COLUMBUS threads to ruin them.  Clevelanders MOVE to Columbus and not vice-versa.  Thus, check your "penis-envy" comment.

 

and...

 

B). Apparently you've been visiting some less than desirable neighborhoods in the Columbus and seriously confusing them with neighborhoods in Cleveland.

 

Indeed.  So basically, "ghetto neighborhoods in Columbus" = "Cleveland neighborhoods."

 

Hey, you implied it, not I.

What is this hot sauce williams you speak of??  I've never seen that brand of BBQ Sauce before.

 

There's one on Superior and apparently one on Buckeye.  It's an East Side Institution.  Are you really from the east side?!?!?

Alright - everyone's had their fun, now back to the topic :whip:

You know what they say...Once you go to Columbus....you buy a cream puff, I dunno.

 

Viva la Cleveland.

Alright - everyone's had their fun, now back to the topic :whip:

 

CDM....You're lucky Big Mama wants us to get back to the topic at hand, or I'd let you have it! :lol:

subclavius, here is a very rough map of my personal recommendations (and non-recommendations) for Tremont and Ohio City. These aren't meant to be absolutely accurate but for the most part the areas shown are relatively gentrified, and finding a decent place shouldn't be a problem. The areas in red have experienced an uptick in crime (a regrettable result of the gentrification). Tremont is pretty much decent around Lincoln Park, Ohio City is pretty decent north of Lorain, and close to West 25th:

 

 

Be aware of any landlord who says their place in the West 70s is "in Ohio City", or if they suggest a place near MetroHealth Hospital is "in Tremont". Most landlords are good but a few try to pull that.

god bless you graphic designing dorks

god bless you graphic designing dorks

 

wait for it.............

There are a lot of rental options on W 25th between Detroit Ave and Train Ave, which seems surprising because this looks like a very active area as far as nightlife is concerned. Is there an issue with the location, like parking or noise?

 

That is just a reflection of Northeast Ohio's soft real estate market. I'm not sure where you're coming from, but you can rid yourself of any notion that finding a great place will be tough. You can live wherever the heck you want in Cleveland, and usually for a reasonable price.

There are a lot of rental options on W 25th between Detroit Ave and Train Ave, which seems surprising because this looks like a very active area as far as nightlife is concerned. Is there an issue with the location, like parking or noise?

 

That is just a reflection of Northeast Ohio's soft real estate market. I'm not sure where you're coming from, but you can rid yourself of any notion that finding a great place will be tough. You can live wherever the heck you want in Cleveland, and usually for a reasonable price.

 

i wouldn't call it soft.  We just haven't over built but as more and more homes are renovated/built as "purchase" instead of rental...the market will get tighter and tighter, especially within the 30 block radius of public square.

 

All those grants/credits that were used to jumpstart housing are probably going to expire in the next few years.

 

Its gonna be a whole different ball game...

^Which is relevant to someone who's looking for a place now because....?

^Which is relevant to someone who's looking for a place now because....?

 

i was just making a statement, your RH

and holy crap, I just saw the brunch menu for Lucky's Cafe in Tremont. This is going to be tougher than I thought!

 

There are few things more delicious than their gingerbread waffles.

 

Avoid most of train ave (I saw this in another post).scary.  I love tremont and OC. few or no nightclubs. No chains, just terrific neighborhood places. Lucky's IS the best brunch in Cleveland. Downtown is great, but less charater, and neighborhoody feel than Tremont or OC . I am the biggest OC fan (as I live in a sub neghborhood of it), but it is a little seedier in character than Tremont or Downtown. But I am female and have a different perspective than most.  I work in OC market square so I see it all! I think the bike would take the most abuse in OC. Anywhere you go it is great if you have room to stash a bike indoors at night, if for any reason, to protect from the elements. Best of luck in Cleveland. For what it is worth, those of us that have moved from out of state are very impressed.