Did you get the Torker yet?

Not yet, it was supposed to be ready by Fri at the latest, and was ready today, but I couldn't get down to get it.  Maybe tomorrow, but maybe Mon I will pick it up and have them set it up for me.

Flat pro

Thanks for the advice.  I just put down on the Torker, they are going to order and assemble one that is just a little smaller than the one they had in stock for me, so I'll be getting it sometime between Wed and Fri.  I did spring for a set of Kevlar tires.  They were highly lauded when I was volunteering down at the bike co-op a while back.  That won't help with bending rims and frames, I know, but should protect my tubes from glass, etc punctures, which kills my enthusiasm faster than anything.

 

Flat protected tires are a God send!  Last year I bought some high dollar Challenge Paris-Roubaix tires since so many people gushed about their great ride quality.  I never did really notice much of a difference, except the 14 or so flats I had in a very short time.  My commute has glass EVERYWHERE, it's been bad this year.  I had enough flats and bought some Maxxis Refuse tires with kevlar belts.  Many, many miles later I haven't had a single flat.  Each tire I inspect the treads I end up picking glass out of them.

 

FWIW, I mostly ride a road bike.... granted it's a steel touring model, so it's pretty stout and heavy by most peoples standards.  I do have an old mountain bike with slicks, which is a good bike.  I've seen people put drop bars on mountain bikes.  I'd like to try that some time.

How about this bike, it has a Schwinn 1980s frame and the rest was rebuilt in 2008 by Ohio City Bike Co-op. It has been used little since and is kept indoors. I live in the Cleveland area. I'm asking $250 for it, or best offer....

 

 

 

 

 

That looks pretty late 80's, maybe 90's to me.  I don't know a ton about Schiwnn mountain bikes, but that one looks nice.  My mountain bike is a Schwinn, a 1980s Sierra in smoked chrome.  As they might say in the 1980s, it's pretty rad.

 

DSC01885 by mkeller234, on Flickr

http://www.bikeberry.com/gas-engine-kits/electric-motor-kits/brushless-electric-bicycle-motor-48v-1000w-rear-wheel-6-gear-hu.html

 

THIS is sweet!

 

I called the BMV to see if these are legal and still considered Bicycles--or Electric Bikes or Motorcycle. They referred me to a f-king Franklin County Office because the BMV doesn't know their ass from a hole in the ground despite this being state legislation. All the Franklin Co. guy did was read the Ohio Revised code to me (PRODUCED BY THE BMVTHE BMV, DIRECT FROM THE BMV'S WEBSITE!) Apparently, anything with a helper-motor that can still be pedaled is considered a moped. Despite some of these motors reaching a measley 17mph. I would love to cruise around using the helper motor but I don't really want to go through the hassell of registration, getting plates and possibly having to modify a bunch of stuff

 

With gas prices so high, I think it would be beneficial to relax this stupid law  in order to promote green energy and fuel efficiency. Am I the only one who thinks this is a little asinine? I mean, some of these top 17mph. I go faster than that most of the time on a regular bike anyway. He said if it goes 30mph it's considered a motorcycle.

 

They won't let anyone have any cool custom toys without red tape... After all, the BMV is nothing more than a money-making machine.

I had an elderly gentleman breeze past me in the metroparks on one of those electronically assisted bikes.  He was really moving on that thing.  Kind of hurt my ego until I realized a few weeks later that it was one of those bikes.

 

 

There are a few recommendations I would make to those people with straight bars.  The easiest way to give yourself more versatility in your grip is to add bar ends.  They not only allow you to change your wrist position during a long ride, but they also help climbing hills and working your upper body.  The other thing that I have added to my newest bike is an adjustable stem.  It allows me to widely adjust the angle my stem angle from -60 to 60 degrees.  I set it lower for off-road ride and higher for more comfort rides.  Very easy to adjust with one of those bike-tools.  Both of these additions will give your bike some versatility which you lose without drop bars in terms of how you want to ride.

^- A kid on my street got pulled over for riding a bicycle with a motor assist. His dad went to court and ended up paying a fine of $200 or something like that.

How about this bike, it has a Schwinn 1980s frame and the rest was rebuilt in 2008 by Ohio City Bike Co-op. It has been used little since and is kept indoors. I live in the Cleveland area. I'm asking $250 for it, or best offer....

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm still interested in selling this.....

^Then it might be useful for you to let us know what size it is.  Impossible to know for sure from the picture, but it looks somehwere around a 19 (or the frame is from a road bike and it measured in centimeters?).  And does the U-lock come with it?

^Then it might be useful for you to let us know what size it is.  Impossible to know for sure from the picture, but it looks somehwere around a 19 (or the frame is from a road bike and it measured in centimeters?).  And does the U-lock come with it?

 

How do I measure the size of it -- by the size of the wheels? Height of the seat?

 

Yes, the U-lock comes with it.

Measure the back stem from where the seat clamp holds the seat post (i.e. the seat post at its lowest point) down to the center of the bottom bracket (the bracket that holds the pedal cranks together).  Mountain bikes are traditionally measured in inches (21+ = XL.... 19-21 = L..... 17-19 = M..... 15-17 = S).  Road bikes use the same measurement in centimeters.  There may be a sticker or engraving somewhere on the back stem (sticker probably not there if frame is from the 80's).  I also like to measure the top post because it give you a better idea of the geometry of the bike.  This measurement would be from the seat post to the front post.  That would give an indication as to the "cockpit" and whether there is enough or too much "reach"...... as I mentioned above, there is not much you can do about this measurement, whereas the more traditional measurement can be worked with by adjusting the seat up or down.  It looks like what you have is a road bike frame, with mountain bike tires, re-furbished to sit and ride more like a comfort bike.  Interesting.

Measure the back stem from where the seat clamp holds the seat post (i.e. the seat post at its lowest point) down to the center of the bottom bracket (the bracket that holds the pedal cranks together).  Mountain bikes are traditionally measured in inches (21+ = XL.... 19-21 = L..... 17-19 = M..... 15-17 = S).  Road bikes use the same measurement in centimeters.  There may be a sticker or engraving somewhere on the back stem (sticker probably not there if frame is from the 80's).  I also like to measure the top post because it give you a better idea of the geometry of the bike.  This measurement would be from the seat post to the front post.  That would give an indication as to the "cockpit" and whether there is enough or too much "reach"...... as I mentioned above, there is not much you can do about this measurement, whereas the more traditional measurement can be worked with by adjusting the seat up or down.  It looks like what you have is a road bike frame, with mountain bike tires, re-furbished to sit and ride more like a comfort bike.  Interesting.

 

I'll break out the tape measure when I get home from work.

^- A kid on my street got pulled over for riding a bicycle with a motor assist. His dad went to court and ended up paying a fine of $200 or something like that.

 

What exactly did he get cited for?

 

That's lame. It's 2012, the world is more urbanized than ever. We have all these creative, efficient and fun modes of transportation besides cars but there's far too many laws, restrictions and just...legal gray-areas-of confusion. Like I said, I called the BMV and they didn't even know their own revised code regarding what constitutes a moped/motorcycle or bicycle-- they had me call a county office to tell me the state's laws. Most people don't know what the hell the laws are, including police but what are you told when you ever get pulled over by the police? Ignorance of the law is no excuse.

 

I'm all about promoting different forms of transportation. It makes city living more interesting and convenient. They need to allow people to ride e-bikes, motorized skateboards, etc. as long as they adhere to basic precautionary measures of safety.  I don't get it... you can't ride an e-bike in the street that tops out at 17mph but you can ride a Segway on the sidewalk (and those things are faster than you think.) You can get a DUI on a bicycle but not on a unicycle or tricycle. These laws need a complete overhaul and they need to be clearly stated/understood and the information easily available.             

^He got cited for operating a motorcycle without a license.

 

I think, but am not sure, that if the motor (in whatever form) spins the wheel, like a moped, then it is a motorcycle but if the motor is just a pedal assist then it is a bicycle

Measure the back stem from where the seat clamp holds the seat post (i.e. the seat post at its lowest point) down to the center of the bottom bracket (the bracket that holds the pedal cranks together).  Mountain bikes are traditionally measured in inches (21+ = XL.... 19-21 = L..... 17-19 = M..... 15-17 = S).  Road bikes use the same measurement in centimeters.  There may be a sticker or engraving somewhere on the back stem (sticker probably not there if frame is from the 80's).  I also like to measure the top post because it give you a better idea of the geometry of the bike.  This measurement would be from the seat post to the front post.  That would give an indication as to the "cockpit" and whether there is enough or too much "reach"...... as I mentioned above, there is not much you can do about this measurement, whereas the more traditional measurement can be worked with by adjusting the seat up or down.  It looks like what you have is a road bike frame, with mountain bike tires, re-furbished to sit and ride more like a comfort bike.  Interesting.

 

I'll break out the tape measure when I get home from work.

 

 

Along the center vertical/seat post, from the bottom bracket to the seat clamp, it's 18"

 

Along the horizontal top post, from the front vertical/steering post to the center vertical/seat post, it's 22"

 

And it's most definitely a mountain bike frame.

^Somebody in the 5'7 - 5'11 range (height-wise) is going to be the best fit for that bike if they are buying it for communiting and leisurely riding purposes.  If somebody is buying it for off-roading, then they can be a bit taller as I believe true mountain bikers like their frames a size smaller than a traditional chart would suggest.

I think, but am not sure, that if the motor (in whatever form) spins the wheel, like a moped, then it is a motorcycle but if the motor is just a pedal assist then it is a bicycle

 

Nope. Not in Ohio, anyway. Modifications to a bicycle as simple as swapping the front tire with a front tire featuring a hub motor, attaching the throttle on to the handlebar and mounting the Li-ion battery to a rack on the back of your bike has legally turned your bike into a motorcycle. It makes zero sense to me.

That would be a scenario where the motor spins the wheel and, yes, it would fall within the contemplation of the state motorcycle laws.  What I am talking about is a motor that simply acts as a pedal assist.  It is only operating to help pedal and does not operate if the rider is not pedaling.  Think of it like a power streering type system for your pedals.  State law doesn't appear ro address that distinction, but most states treat them as bicycles.  Local laws, of course, may be more restrictive and specified to a electronic pedal assist bike.

I got the Torker earlier this week, and I had a few chances to ride it short distances.  I'm definitely enjoying the bike, everything seems solid on it, though as I'm not an expert I can't really give a very detailed reviews.  Thanks for the opinions and help, everyone!

^Somebody in the 5'7 - 5'11 range (height-wise) is going to be the best fit for that bike if they are buying it for communiting and leisurely riding purposes.  If somebody is buying it for off-roading, then they can be a bit taller as I believe true mountain bikers like their frames a size smaller than a traditional chart would suggest.

 

Thanks. So is anyone interested? See pics of the bike on the previous page. Asking $250.

I Biked home from work and low and behold - this guy on a little bmx bike with no helmet or headlight or anything just hops up on the sidewalk and runs right into a light pole! What is it with people running into these giant poles when I'm trying to go home from work?! This sh!t ALWAYS happens to me! For f*ck's Sake, I saw the reason we were out of power for 2 days! lol! I felt bad for the guy on the bike that ran into the pole though. I mean, his head, his whole body just KABOOM! -- right into it at probably 15 mph at least. He said his brother lived like 3 houses down and he was able to call him and let him know what was going on. He was squirming a lot from being in so much pain. I told him to stop moving so much, if he thinks something might be broken it needs to be x-rayed. After he got ahold of his brother though, I just left and wished him luck.

That would be a scenario where the motor spins the wheel and, yes, it would fall within the contemplation of the state motorcycle laws.  What I am talking about is a motor that simply acts as a pedal assist.  It is only operating to help pedal and does not operate if the rider is not pedaling.  Think of it like a power streering type system for your pedals.  State law doesn't appear ro address that distinction, but most states treat them as bicycles.  Local laws, of course, may be more restrictive and specified to a electronic pedal assist bike.

 

I've never heard of this pedal-assist .. can you show me an example online? I can't even find anything other than an independent electric motor. Not just one that's only in action when you pedal.

http://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en/collections/electric_assist/

The problem with a bike like that is you really need a secure indoor parking space at work since it's too expensive to risk having it stolen. 

I'd rather just buy a kit. I don't see any kits like that online. You can basically turn your bike into a moped or motorcycle (depending on the top speed) for $150 but you have to shell out over $2k for a pedal-assistant bike. There's policy effecting retail price for 'ya!

^But would you then have to buy motorcycle insurance and abide by all motorcycle laws?

I'd rather just buy a kit. I don't see any kits like that online. You can basically turn your bike into a moped or motorcycle (depending on the top speed) for $150 but you have to shell out over $2k for a pedal-assistant bike. There's policy effecting retail price for 'ya!

 

Is it really policy, or is it that you can charge more for a high tech pedal assisted bike than for a cheap motor to slap onto whatever bike you already have?  How big is the market of do-it-yourself enthusiasts with the skills to do that work for themselves?  How big is the market of office dwelling creampuffs, and seniors who want to be "active", who are too lazy to pedal their bike unassisted?  Who has more money?

I'd love to test one of these out on Cincinnati's hills.  But again, I don't think they're too practical for general city riding because they are so attractive to theives.

^But would you then have to buy motorcycle insurance and abide by all motorcycle laws?

If the assist is limited to 25mph then it is considered a bicycle and not a motorcycle or moped so no insurance required.

 

I'd rather just buy a kit. I don't see any kits like that online. You can basically turn your bike into a moped or motorcycle (depending on the top speed) for $150 but you have to shell out over $2k for a pedal-assistant bike. There's policy effecting retail price for 'ya!

You're comparing rotten apples to fresh oranges. The $150 kits don't come with a battery and for the most part look like they'd be crap. For an honest comparison to a $150 kit, try the walmart special.

 

The good kits sell for between 1000 and 1500 that won't fall apart as fast. For example this looks like it's a more comperable kit to what trek uses in their bikes at the link Hts121 posted.

 

how do these things fare with an emergency stop?

Do you have to disengage the thing first?

how do these things fare with an emergency stop?

Do you have to disengage the thing first?

I would assume that the motor shuts off automatically when you hit the brakes.

>I would assume that the motor shuts off automatically when you hit the brakes.

 

Stay away from any electric bike with the model name Hal 9000. 

Sold my bike today for $200. I am now without a bike for the first time since 2008. Feels kinda weird.

http://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en/collections/electric_assist/

 

Wow! Regenerative braking!

Sold my bike today for $200. I am now without a bike for the first time since 2008. Feels kinda weird.

 

So why did you sell it?

Why does it feel weird if you didn't ride it?

Sold my bike today for $200. I am now without a bike for the first time since 2008. Feels kinda weird.

 

So why did you sell it?

 

I need money. And I wasn't able to use it for frequent or longer rides of more than a few blocks since it hurt my back to ride.

 

Why does it feel weird if you didn't ride it?

 

Can't explain it. It's like the option is gone. I rode it to the store sometimes. Now I must walk or drive. Always.

Sold my bike today for $200. I am now without a bike for the first time since 2008. Feels kinda weird.

 

So why did you sell it?

 

I need money. And I wasn't able to use it for frequent or longer rides of more than a few blocks since it hurt my back to ride.

 

Why does it feel weird if you didn't ride it?

 

Can't explain it. It's like the option is gone. I rode it to the store sometimes. Now I must walk or drive. Always.

get it completely

money aside, can you maybe ride a recumbent?

money aside, can you maybe ride a recumbent?

 

I suppose. But I just don't see myself riding one. I'd feel like a freak riding one of those things, and motorists might never see me. I'd be worried I'd get run over! Maybe dogs would chase after me! Nah, I think I'll stick with the Nike's, the transit pass and the sports car. :)

Get a comfort bike so your riding position is more upright.  Most have some shock absorption in the seat as well

Get a comfort bike so your riding position is more upright.  Most have some shock absorption in the seat as well

 

Are you buying?

Well, this thread isn't titled, "Help me not buy a bike..."

Well, this thread isn't titled, "Help me not buy a bike..."

 

Oy!

Love this quote:  "Remember: bicycles run on fat and save you money, cars run on money and make you fat."

Love this quote:  "Remember: bicycles run on fat and save you money, cars run on money and make you fat."

 

Nice quote. And if I could get out of my car's lease I could consider getting a bike that had heated bucket seats, shock absorbers, lumbar support, and upper back and side support to help me with the slipped disc in my back. Just not right now.

Maybe we can design you a pedal powered E-Z chair.

I already have one. And it's got three pedals: gas, brake and clutch....

 

That's the Tiburon, no?  I like those.  I love sports cars, too, and miss having one.  Especially my RX-7.