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Visiting Cleveland (for the first time) June 23-26, Need travel tips, Room, etc

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The Bike Co-op sounds great.  I'll most likely rent from there for a day or two.  I have no problem bringing my own lock either...but do you happen to know if they charge for helmet rental?  This is shaping up to be a great trip, and I have you guys to thanks for that.  I told J Gov in an e-mail though,  I still don't have a place to stay, and if I don't end up finding one I'll be forced to sleep under an overpass adding one homeless person to your census figures. 

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I have heard about this "couch surfing" thing where you trade sexual favors for a place to sleep. Oh wait that is just what I imagine it to be or misunderstood it as cRrouch surfing. Actually it is legit. You register your "couch" and then people stay with you for free and vice versa.  Some reporter tried it (NYT) and reported no hanky panky.  www.couchsurfing.com/

 

As an FYI, couch surfing is the exact opposite of a "hook up" site.

 

http://www.clevelandmagazine.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=E73ABD6180B44874871A91F6BA5C249C&nm=Arts+%26+Entertainemnt&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=1578600D80804596A222593669321019&tier=4&id=7B0F68FBFEAC458A8BEEF2239CDA7219

 

I live in Tremont (near downtown, on a 24-hour bus line). I might be able to put you up. PM me if you're interested. I say "might" because I need to check with my roommate first.

I have heard about this "couch surfing" thing where you trade sexual favors for a place to sleep. Oh wait that is just what I imagine it to be or misunderstood it as cRrouch surfing. Actually it is legit. You register your "couch" and then people stay with you for free and vice versa.  Some reporter tried it (NYT) and reported no hanky panky.  www.couchsurfing.com/

 

As an FYI, couch surfing is the exact opposite of a "hook up" site.

 

http://www.clevelandmagazine.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=E73ABD6180B44874871A91F6BA5C249C&nm=Arts+%26+Entertainemnt&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=1578600D80804596A222593669321019&tier=4&id=7B0F68FBFEAC458A8BEEF2239CDA7219

 

I live in Tremont (near downtown, on a 24-hour bus line). I might be able to put you up. PM me if you're interested. I say "might" because I need to check with my roommate first.

 

 

That was a well written and fun article to read!

 

I've check into couch surfing myself, but have never done it.

The Bike Co-op sounds great.  I'll most likely rent from there for a day or two.  I have no problem bringing my own lock either...but do you happen to know if they charge for helmet rental?  This is shaping up to be a great trip, and I have you guys to thanks for that.  I told J Gov in an e-mail though,  I still don't have a place to stay, and if I don't end up finding one I'll be forced to sleep under an overpass adding one homeless person to your census figures. 

 

I don't understand why you don't wait until you save some money up for a hotel room and then go?  Is there a reason the trip is so urgent? 

The Bike Co-op sounds great.  I'll most likely rent from there for a day or two.  I have no problem bringing my own lock either...but do you happen to know if they charge for helmet rental?  This is shaping up to be a great trip, and I have you guys to thanks for that.  I told J Gov in an e-mail though,  I still don't have a place to stay, and if I don't end up finding one I'll be forced to sleep under an overpass adding one homeless person to your census figures. 

 

I don't understand why you don't wait until you save some money up for a hotel room and then go?  Is there a reason the trip is so urgent? 

 

He may just enjoy cheap travel. I prefer to travel cheaply. It forces me to be more creative, and, typically, I have a better time.

That's exactly the reason.  I do enjoy cheap travel.  Plus, it's more fun and personal to meet people along the way.  I don't want to spend my time in a stuffy clean hotel room the whole trip.  I'd much rather get there, and figure it out.  It makes the trip more adventurous.  The other reason is that I'm going to Portugal for a month in September.  I need to save up a lot for that.  This free plane ticket that expired at the end of this summer fell into my lap, so I decided that I'd use it only if it didn't cut into my Portugal budget.  That cuts out A LOT.

Oh yeah AND I'd be more than happy to house one of you on your next Milwaukee trip.

The Bike Co-op sounds great.  I'll most likely rent from there for a day or two.  I have no problem bringing my own lock either...but do you happen to know if they charge for helmet rental?  This is shaping up to be a great trip, and I have you guys to thanks for that.  I told J Gov in an e-mail though,  I still don't have a place to stay, and if I don't end up finding one I'll be forced to sleep under an overpass adding one homeless person to your census figures. 

 

I don't understand why you don't wait until you save some money up for a hotel room and then go?  Is there a reason the trip is so urgent? 

 

He may just enjoy cheap travel. I prefer to travel cheaply. It forces me to be more creative, and, typically, I have a better time.

 

I agree. I am the queen of cheap travel. Thats part of why I get to go so many places. Traveling spouse does not hurt either.  but I am not into staying at peoples places. Even friends! I am ashamed at all the invites we have to cool places we have not taken people up on. Having house guests stresses me out. I love having people over for dinner, but I like them to leave afterwards. Cheap travel, what ever your threshhold, does yield some of the best times and funny memories-I have some pretty crazy ones including a "cultural misunderstanding" with a mexican guy when I was 19(lesson learned boys and girls cant be just friends)  that ditched me somewhere in Cancun. Our bags and travelers checks were in his apartment in the bario. Which I could not find the next day...and I had $8 to my name. This was in the olden days before ATMS, cell phones and all that jazz... fun times

 

Anyhow if you don't find anyone, you gotta think about that couch surfing. I am really curious to see how it turns out.

I offer my sofa that converts to a bed. I have two cats, however, so if you're allergic. I'm on the #55 bus line on Clifton, and within a 5-minute walk of the 24-hour #26 bus line on Detroit Avenue, plus the frequent #75 and #804 (Lakewood Community Circulator). I'm also a 10-minute walk of the Red Line station at West 117th and Madison (Highland Square).

 

P.S. ajknee, check out my Cleveland Rail Tour photo threads if you haven't already. They should give you some ideas on things to see and do along the rail transit lines. See the rail system map at:

 

http://www.riderta.com/pdf/maps/System_Map_Rapid.pdf

"In the souls of the people the grapes of wrath are filling and growing heavy, growing heavy for the vintage." -- John Steinbeck

I went to Boston five or six years ago with a friend and was able to stay pretty cheap at a vacant Boston College dorm over the summer. Maybe CSU has a similar program? It couldn't hurt to give them a call...

 

http://www.fenntower.com

So, I'll be in Cleveland before noon on 5/31 and  I'm thinking of spending the night and leaving in the afternoon on Sunday. Aside from Kids in the Hall at 8:00 on Saturday I could meet up with anyone willing to hang out. A good coffeeshop recommendation would be nice.

I really like the Arabica Coffeehouses. There are several of them but they feel like independents,not a chain. There's a beautiful one in an old house in the University Circle area with nice outdoor seating.

damnit!  I read this and now I want to inhale a pot of coffee.  oh the torture.

 

I miss you Arabica - old friend. :cry:

PUT -- THE -- COFFEEPOT -- DOWN!

 

Seriously, I think we should get together for breakfast near where you're staying, Columbusite. Tell us where that is and we'll suggest places to meet -- or at least I will!

 

Here's a suggestion: buy a Day Pass on RTA. You can buy one for $4 -- just put four singles in the fare box on a bus, train or in a station's fare machine. But it has to be exact change. Keep your Day Pass in shirt pocket or someplace where it doesn't get bent or folded -- the magnetic strips on back don't work well if they get folded.

 

Take the Red Line to the West Side Market first. It's open on Saturdays but not on Sundays. And although it's open until 4 p.m., once vendors sell out of stuff, they're allowed to shut down for the day. So the earlier you get there, the more interesting and busier it will be. The Red Line's Ohio City station is right across Lorain Avenue from the market. There's also the "Open Air in Market Square" a park at the corner of W. 25th and Lorain Ave., on the corner opposite from the West Side Market. There's all sorts of food, music, vendors and such....http://www.openairinmarketsquare.com/ (site needs updating!).

 

Then take the Red Line to Tower City Center. It's worth seeing, even if you aren't shopping!

 

Then take the Waterfront Line from Tower City to the North Coast station. Exit the station's long hallway at East 9th Street and turn left, down the slope and to the lake, by the Rock Hall and the other lakefront attractions. They're worth strolling by, even if you aren't going inside (you can go into the main atrium of the Rock Hall without paying -- and there's an overpriced cafe and gift shop in there). There's also the USS Cod World War II submarine, the Mather steamship, the Great Lakes Science Center and the Lake Shore Electric Railway Museum. Plus lots of photo opportunities -- see my Cleveland Rail Tour Part 3 for examples.

 

By then, you'll probably be ready for your 8 p.m. event. What is Kids in the Hall anyway? If you still have time, get back on the Waterfront Line and stay on it until you get to Shaker Square -- it's a great neighborhood to visit and stroll around.

 

As for the next day, you can figure that out when we meet for coffee. Perhaps you'll want to spend that day around University Circle, including at the art museum which is free.

"In the souls of the people the grapes of wrath are filling and growing heavy, growing heavy for the vintage." -- John Steinbeck

I really like the Arabica Coffeehouses. There are several of them but they feel like independents,not a chain. There's a beautiful one in an old house in the University Circle area with nice outdoor seating.

 

I think that a few of them (there are not that many) are independently owned. I know that the middle-aged guy who works the counter at the University Circle location is the owner of that particular coffee shop.

...What is Kids in the Hall anyway?

 

Please tell me that you're kidding! Groundbreaking sketch comedy show from Canada, produced by Lorne Michaels from SNL.

 

Watch a few and maybe it will come back to you in a rush.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=%22kids+in+the+hall%22&search_type=

...What is Kids in the Hall anyway?

 

Please tell me that you're kidding! Groundbreaking sketch comedy show from Canada, produced by Lorne Michaels from SNL.

 

Watch a few and maybe it will come back to you in a rush.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=%22kids+in+the+hall%22&search_type=

 

I'm so shcocked that KJP doesn't know about "the kids"??  LAWD!!  Those Queens are a ki-ki!!

So I take it this is a TV show? If so, the only TV I watch anymore are Weather Channel, CNBC, Bloomberg and sometimes the History Channel or Science Channel. Oh, and I do tune into CNN Headline News on weekday mornings to see what Robin is wearing...  But I probably spend 15-60 minutes watching TV each day. I haven't watched SNL since the 1980s and I don't follow any TV dramas, except an occasional Law & Order re-run. Sorry but most of what's on TV just doesn't do it for me anymore.

"In the souls of the people the grapes of wrath are filling and growing heavy, growing heavy for the vintage." -- John Steinbeck

Alright, with less than a month until my Cleveland defloration, I wanted to thank all of you for your help.  Everything is set, and provided Midwest Airlines (which Milwaukee greatly misses as its hometown airline) doesn't crumble in the next month I'll be on the Red line headed toward Terminal Tower sometime the morning of June 23rd.  I hope the mini UO meet is still on because I'd love to meet many of you.  I'm also really curious about a few things regarding the plan of your city, mainly who laid out the street "grid" and how they went about it.  But we can chat about that over lunch.  I'll see you all in a few weeks.

--AJ

 

Oh PS - I had no clue what Kids in the Hall was/is either so don't worry about it.

so what is your game plan? I am surely working but can maybe great away and meet folks. Are you going to the westside market on a wednesday?

I don't really have a game plan.  I get into Hopkins at about 10 AM on Monday, then I'll get my RTA pass.  I might stop at one of the West Side neighborhoods on the way in.  (I still have to work out when I'm meeting the person I'm staying with in Detroit Shoreway.)  But then I'll be headed to Terminal Tower, where hopefully I'll get lunch with you all.  After that it's all up in the air.  I think I'll do the Shaker/University Square are on Tuesday (but that could change back to Thursday).  I also might go to a city council meeting with KJP on Tuesday night, but we're still working out the details.  Wednesday I'm definitely going to the West Side market in the morning (like 7 or 8 ish) and from there I haven't decided.  I'm hoping to rent a bike on Wednesday and either ride the Towpath through Cuyahoga Valley or Rocky River Reservation.  (Does anyone prefer one to the other?)  Then I fly out Thursday evening at about 8.

 

That's my plan.  I'm hoping to keep it pretty open because I have no clue what Cleveland will through at me. 

 

One of the things that I would like to see (but I understand why you'd all be reluctant to tell me about ) is your worst neighborhood.  One of my hobbies is visiting the heart of every city's ghetto and comparing them.  And don't worry about safety, I know how to handle myself in tense situations.  Anyway, you guys have had a significant population loss over time, so I'm sure you've got neighborhoods with crumbling housing stock...but I have no clue where they are.  I know this is odd but any insight would be great. 

If you are on the Redline (rapid), you could get off at either the E.55th or E.79th stations and take a look at Cleveland's worst.

Sounds good.  On the Redline, I can make a quick getaway too...that means I'm allowed to cause trouble. :)

I think I'll do the Shaker/University Square........are on Tuesday (but that could change back to Thursday). . 

 

That made me chuckle.  LMAO.  It's Shaker Square and University Circle.  I don't want people to look at you funny when you ask for directions to either of those neighborhoods. 

If you are on the Redline (rapid), you could get off at either the E.55th or E.79th stations and take a look at Cleveland's worst.

 

NO...See Richmond Hts.!

I think I'll do the Shaker/University Square........are on Tuesday (but that could change back to Thursday). .

 

That made me chuckle. LMAO. It's Shaker Square and University Circle. I don't want people to look at you funny when you ask for directions to either of those neighborhoods.  

 

Oh, geez.  I knew that too.  I just wasn't thinking. 

 

 

 

And Cleveland City Council meetings are on Monday nights. Their last one before summer recess is June 16. Sorry!!

"In the souls of the people the grapes of wrath are filling and growing heavy, growing heavy for the vintage." -- John Steinbeck

I was more interested in showing him the pretty architecture of Cleveland City Hall. And most of the council people are very friendly. Unlike most cities' council meetings which are stoic and boring, at Cleveland council meetings you can chat with council members, mayoral staff and the media while the ordinance titles are read aloud at three separate meetings, per most cities' charters. Every so often though, the council president has to use his gavel for parts of the meeting where speakers are recognized and presentations are made. Other than that, low-volume chatting is encouraged.

"In the souls of the people the grapes of wrath are filling and growing heavy, growing heavy for the vintage." -- John Steinbeck

If you are on the Redline (rapid), you could get off at either the E.55th or E.79th stations and take a look at Cleveland's worst.

I think much worse is Union Miles which is generally south east of this area.

If you are on the Redline (rapid), you could get off at either the E.55th or E.79th stations and take a look at Cleveland's worst.

I think much worse is Union Miles which is generally south east of this area.

 

Again....I think Richmond Hts. is worse!  You might even get to feed a deer.

If you are on the Redline (rapid), you could get off at either the E.55th or E.79th stations and take a look at Cleveland's worst.

I think much worse is Union Miles which is generally south east of this area.

 

i don't see how you can get much worse than the forgotten triangle (but there is competition in this city). Also, remember that the guy is going to be car and vespa-free.

true. I am actually pretty comfortable on e55th. Put me over in Union miles on a friday afternoon, where 2/3's of the houses are boarded up, and I am surrounded by people selling their "wares".

true. I am actually pretty comfortable on e55th. Put me over in Union miles on a friday afternoon, where 2/3's of the houses are boarded up, and I am surrounded by people selling their "wares".

 

Are you serious....wow.

yes. I am on e55th for work a few times a month during the day and have never had a problem (going on 5 years) . I know longer work in the Union Miles area, but it was pretty bad, even during the day (and I happen to think most places are fine during the day). Fri afternoons are bad in most inner city neighborhood b/c all the subururbinites come in for their drugs. Once I clarify I work in human services (which is my biz in some neighborhoods I may not otherwise visit) I am generally left alone.

Depends on what he considers to be "worse." Is it seeing a part of the city that's become so depopulated that it appears rural? You can see that just fine from the Rapid (on both the Red Line and the Blue/Green Line) as you travel in the vicinity of East 55th-79th. But the area is so devoid of population that I wonder if it's truly unsafe?

 

On the other side of the coin, is Union-Miles, southern Collinwood, East Cleveland all on the East Side, or Storer Avenue on the West Side "worse"  because there's lots of people around where drug dealing, domestic violence and general mayhem are occurring?

"In the souls of the people the grapes of wrath are filling and growing heavy, growing heavy for the vintage." -- John Steinbeck

good point about definition of "worst". come to think of it we could just send you to Strongsville or what have you if you want to see that.

I'm looking for the place where the housing stock is far from saving. 

 

Here are some examples of the places I like to visit (I've been to all of these, but they're not my photos)

 

Saint Louis (Saint Louis Place)

 

stlouis_place-555.jpg

 

howard2200.jpg

 

23rd-north_of_cass.jpg

 

market2200.jpg

 

Gary Indiana

 

gary34.jpg

 

gary52.jpg

 

Detroit

 

d15.jpg

 

d30.jpg

 

d180.jpg

 

Cincinnati (Glencoe)

 

CUFGlencoe2.jpg

 

East St. Louis, IL

 

esl16.jpg

 

esl31.jpg

 

Milwaukee

 

P1000457.JPG

 

http://www.abandonedbutnotforgotten.com

 

http://www.urbandecay.ca/

 

http://www.builtstlouis.net/northside/st_louis_place00.html

 

ok. I see. IMO I think the east side is the best for the old brick buildings you wish you could save. The west has plenty of decay, but there are more wood structures on the west side.  I think some of the photo threads have some of the old east side buildings. While I think your interest is a bit macabre, I will play. I am trying to think which streets will have the best bang for your buck on public transport. Maybe Euclid av -anything past University Circle into east Cleveland, also broadway ave to the south. Don't forget there are many areas where there is preservation of great buildings.

The castle in Milwaukee looks super cool. Kind of reminds me of the old Gospel Press building in Tremont (which is being renovated into lofts).

Okay, I'll admit that my photos were not a fair survey.  The crumbling houses look the same in Milwaukee as they do in most other cities.  That castle is actually the former Pabst Brewery.  The entire complex is lavish.  It's kind of creepy though, because it's set on top of a hill on the Northwest edge of downtown, and its empty towers loom over the city.  Luckily we have a crazy, rich, old guy named Joseph Zilber who bought the place and he's sinking a hell of a lot of money into it as we speak. 

 

http://www.thebrewerymke.com/index.htm

 

  Visit the suburbs, they're scary!  Parma...Fairview..Speed thru Linndale...Richmond Hts.  They're scary I tell you!

ok. I see. IMO I think the east side is the best for the old brick buildings you wish you could save. The west has plenty of decay, but there are more wood structures on the west side.  I think some of the photo threads have some of the old east side buildings. While I think your interest is a bit macabre, I will play. I am trying to think which streets will have the best bang for your buck on public transport. Maybe Euclid av -anything past University Circle into east Cleveland, also broadway ave to the south. Don't forget there are many areas where there is preservation of great buildings.

 

Yes, East Cleveland, for sure!  It's a museum of crumbling brick apartment buildings.

Out of curiosity are you looking for a photo op by going into these neighborhoods?

No, I really have no reason for visiting these areas, other than to get a full grasp of the city.  Its intriguing to see exactly how alive some of the worst neighborhoods still are.  Some places I've gone (like East St. Louis and Gary) have neighborhoods that have been completely lost.  People gave up caring a long time ago.  Then there are the places like Over-the-Rhine in Cincinnati which is FAR from dead, but definitely at a turning point.  It's different in every city.  I'm one to see potential in the worst places, and I'm curious of how I'll perceive East Cleveland. 

 

Don't worry, I wont be using it against Cleveland.  (Mainly because I have a sick obsession with Ohio and I need all the leveraging points I can get to support my case against Milwaukeeans.) But also because I'm sure it's not THAT bad.  Cleveland is a great city.

You could take the Woodland/Buckeye 12 or 13 bus from Downtown to Shaker Square and take the rapid back.  Lots of low rise walk up Public housing projects and such along the route and it's not very pretty....at least it used to not be.  Some of it has been cleaned up, but it is probably more scenic neighborhood-wise than the rapid which runs in a trench below grade a lot.  You will see most of the "urban renewal" areas from the 40's and 50's along Woodland.

 

http://www.gcrta.org/pdf/12-13.pdf

 

I always thought Buckeye Rd was interesting because it's literally around the corner from beautiful Shaker Square and the area gets rough quick.  I used to walk over there to the post office when I lived on Kemper.  When I would drive that way to Shaker Square from I 77 after 11:00pm, there was an unspoken rule that you didn't really stop at the red lights, just slow down....and the Cleveland cops would not stop you.

There a low rise project on Woodland and they mostly stop around east 65 street.

 

Buckeye has changed greatly.  As South Moreland becomes more popular, the streets near going west have greatly improved.

 

It's not the same.

 

This is why most have suggested taking the train to 79 street and walking around.

 

The red light rule urban myth is great exaggerated.

Don't worry, I wont be using it against Cleveland.

 

That wasn't my reason for the question. I just couldn't figure out why anyone would want to go visit a city to see it's slums but your answer makes perfect sense.

 

Enjoy your visit to Cleveland.

I would also reccomend East Cleveland... going through that city breaks my heart.

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