Posted June 3, 200817 yr Hello, the last few months, as I have been trying to learn more about Cleveland, I have been surfing through this website nearly daily. I mainly have been reading posts in the T&R assistance forum and northeast Ohio construction forum (love reading about the new downtown projects). Anyway, I am graduating from Ohio State in less than a week with a degree in engineering and I begin my job in Cleveland Heights in late July. I will be working near Nela Park. I have only been to Cleveland 3 times for sporting events and once for an interview in Cleveland Heights. As of right now I will be living alone (1 Bdrm) but there is a chance I will have a roommate who is a friend of a friend (2 Bdrm). There will be no pets living with me. I will begin with some of my interests, etc: -originally from a small town in NW Ohio -will be making an average beginning engineers salary -nearly obsessed with sports (watching and playing all kinds) and have already bought Browns tickets for the upcoming season -love trying new things (lived/worked in Germany last summer and did some backpacking throughout Europe) and will try nearly anything once -love meeting new people -like to go out and have a good time (more into pubs/bars than clubs) -anything involving live music makes me enjoy myself 10 fold; and if it is classic rock that improves to 20 fold (also have a guitar I would like to learn to play one of these days) -enjoy being outdoors while doing anything (running, playing sports, drinking, grilling, etc). Therefore a common area, yard, balcony, pool, etc would be nice but not 100% necessary. -people, people, people...I want to be around people who are active and do not just go home every afternoon and watch TV and go to bed. I would like to live in an area with plenty of mid-late 20 year olds. Although areas with older age groups are not a problem. -I would prefer not to live in an apt complex full of couples and families. I do not plan on making a lot of noise but I do not want to have to worry about being too loud if I have some friends over for drinks/games on weekends before midnight. -do not have a preference of the type of apt it is (duplex, apt complex, studio, etc) but do not want to feel like I am a poor college student anymore (finally making money!). Again I don't mind living around college students but do not want to live in a "college apt" owned by a slum lord. I am sure it is not quite the same around JCU and CWU as it is OSU however. -I expect to be working quite a bit and will also be taking some classes at the same time so reasonable noise levels during the week are expected. -Overall I hope to live in an area that is lively and fun throughout the year so that my friends that come visit from out of town will love coming back. Also an area that is good for a hard working engineer. -I would prefer not to have a commute much over 20 minutes. Any chance for public transportation to/from work would be great but I expect to have to drive (aka not going to be a factor in my decision). What I've been told (have had 3 suggestions from friends): Here are 4 areas that have been suggested to me and the pros and cons that I have gathered in my limited research. 1) Lakewood: pros- lots of bars, plenty of parks for outside activities, on the waterfront for good scenery, many mid-late 20 year olds cons- the farthest I would be willing to commute to work (~25 min although not sure what the traffic is like), not as good of public transportation as the east side?, have not found any highly recommended apts (have only used major websites for my searches though and not individual owners) 2) Coventry (although I believe it is a part of Cleveland Heights): pros- very close to work, eclectic and fun vibe, plenty of people my age who are open to new things and new people, a few places to go out to on weekends? cons- not near the waterfront (although not that important), not as many parks nearby?, not as many places to go out on weekends? 3) Downtown: pros- right in the thick of things, lots of action, near the pro sports facilities, not a bad drive to work, plenty of places to go out and eat, near the lake (although I've learned plenty about Cleveland's lack of use of its' lakefront setting), a lot of cool scenery and history, new projects on their way (FEB and more hopefully!) cons- more expensive? (especially for a 1 Bdrm and when parking is factored in), not as easy for outdoor activities/sports or grilling out (no parks or yards), not as safe (although from what I have read on here that is somewhat of a stereotype for downtown Cleveland?) 4) East of University Circle: really this was just a general suggestion made to me with the following two reasons... pros- plenty more public transportation, plenty of people my age (?= not real sure but what it seems in my limited research) I appreciate any feedback I receive and would love as much info and suggestions as possible (with regards to areas, towns, apt's). Also any similarities in any areas between Cleveland and Columbus would be helpful as well if anyone is familiar with both cities. I have read the 'relocation guide' that is stickied at the top and that has been very helpful as well. As of right now I am only looking to rent until I get a feeling for the area and how long I will be living there (let's hope I love it and it's permanent). Lastly, sorry for such a long read and thanks for your time.
June 3, 200817 yr Hi tradition 7 - welcome to the board & Cleveland. Congrats on the new job, by the way. As someone who is one year out of school, and has lived/played in those areas you mention above, I would really recommend Downtown. The number of younger people, bars, sports, and activity will really impress you. And the crime strereotype is just that - I don't have any problems, other than telling bums & homeless no when they ask for money here & there. And prices will be what you want - if you end up having a roomate, a 2BR will be very affordable, and I think the little extra you pay for a 1BR is really worth it. I'm at the upper level of my budget at 900/mo, but I also couldn't ask for anything better than my building, my location, my apartment (1700 sq/feet in HWD). I did live in Little Italy for two years & spent almost every night in Coventry - it has a very very strong college feel (which I grew out of - I like going out, I don't like the obnoxious college people). But if that's what you're looking for, you may want to check it out. Best of luck!
June 3, 200817 yr It sounded to me when you described what you wanted... you pretty much described east 4th street. I would check it out.
June 3, 200817 yr I would recommend Coventry/Cleveland Heights (Coventry is an "area" within CH) based on what you're looking for. Congratulations and we look forward to another new resident and UO member!
June 3, 200817 yr Thanks for the helpful descriptions. While reading your preferences, it sounded like you described the Coventry neighborhood. But then I realized that since you want to be near outdoor activities, I would rate the Edgewater neighborhood, downtown and University Circle as the best places. Lots of bike paths and bike-friendly routes in those areas. I live in Lakewood, and biking is pretty decent as long as you stick to the sidestreets, Edgewater Drive, and the Lakefront Bikeway. Lots of bars/taverns with lots of people and live music in Lakewood, downtown and Coventry. "In the souls of the people the grapes of wrath are filling and growing heavy, growing heavy for the vintage." -- John Steinbeck
June 3, 200817 yr You'd probably be happy in any of the four areas you mentioned, although you might grow tired of the commute from Lakewood. Of the four, you would probably find Downtown the most consistently exciting, and it would probably offer the widest range of possible activities/going out options within walking distance. (Sports, theaters, bars, recreation - be sure to check out the Rowing Foundation down in the Flats if you're into rowing at all.) You might add Shaker Square to your list as well. It has a slightly more "adult" feel than Coventry or Downtown and doesn't have many bars, which would be a drawback on your want list. On the plus side, however, the commute would be easy, there are lots of amenities (grocery, farmer's market, coffee shop, bookstore etc.) and there's nice outdoor access with the Shaker Lakes right next door.
June 3, 200817 yr Welcome :wave: I say stick with Cleveland Hts. (I know you kids are shocked I didn't say SS :-P) Very friendly. Coventry is close to Univ. Circle, Little Italy/Murray Hill, Cedar Fairmount and Shaker Square. and decent access to downtown via public transportation or car. Parks?? Cleveland Hts. is FULL of parks. In 10 minutes you can walk (via Mayfield) from Coventry to the Recreation Pavilion and Forest Hills Park or Cumberland Park. There are bike trails that lead thru all three of the cities parks.
June 3, 200817 yr Welcome :wave: I say stick with Cleveland Hts. (I know you kids are shocked I didn't say SS :-P) Very friendly. Coventry is close to Univ. Circle, Little Italy/Murray Hill, Cedar Fairmount and Shaker Square. and decent access to downtown via public transportation or car. Parks?? Cleveland Hts. is FULL of parks. In 10 minutes you can walk (via Mayfield) from Coventry to the Recreation Pavilion and Forest Hills Park or Cumberland Park. There are bike trails that lead thru all three of the cities parks. I second Cleveland Heights, specifically Coventry. Population is heavy on recent grads. As MTS said, plenty of parks (don't forget that the shaker lakes are all less than 10 minutes away too). Great restaurants there and at cedar lee and little italy both right around the corner. Plenty of bars/pubs as well. Live music at The Grog Shop. Plus access to downtown is simple.
June 4, 200817 yr No one has suggested Tremont or Ohio City yet. I think you should consider them since they are pretty central to what you're looking for. They have some of the best dining in Cleveland. Either are funky neighborhoods. I always enjoy visiting Ohio City. Its easy to get to live venue clubs in Lakewood or downtown from there. I suppose you have a decent chance of taking a rapid to work from this area as well. If you're into high-end beer at all, say Great Lakes and above, then you owe it to yourself to be in the western part of Cuyahoga County with most of the breweries in the county. If you live in Ohio City, its cool to be able to walk over to GLBC and drink the beers they don't sell in bottles. I think its one of the better walking neighborhoods in Cleveland with Bier Market, Daves, and West Side Market. For a Columbus reference, this area has a Brewery District feel to it, in particular around Schmidts.
June 4, 200817 yr Wow thanks so much for all of the great replies. They way it sounds I can't go wrong with downtown, Coventry, Shaker Heights, or Ohio City. I will be traveling up early next week to hopefully get a feel for some of the areas. It seems as if I am going to have a difficult decision as they all seem to appeal in different ways. Downtown- lots going on Coventry- young, lively, carefree Shaker- lakes! Ohio City- I love GLBC and love trying new beers Lakewood- sounds great but if it does not have a significant leg up on the other areas then I don't think the extra commute would be worth it everyday Anyone have any suggestions on the best way to get a feel of what it would be like to live in each area in a few hours? haha I plan on only staying 1 night and looking around each area and then coming back in a couple of weeks after deciding on an area to find an apartment. Please continue with any suggestions and what is the best way to find an apartment in the areas not downtown. It seems as if it is pretty easy to find all of the downtown apartments online but not quite as easy for the other areas. I really appreciate everyones help and look forward to reading more tips. Any additional info on any of the areas would be great too. I have a feeling I am going to be pretty torn between these areas. I am not good at making these kinds of decisions when one area isn't noticeably better than all of the others so anything anyone can add (even the smallest things) is much appreciated. Thanks again!
June 4, 200817 yr Here's what you do: select a neighborhood, find an apartment, then take your time exploring the city over many months and then decide where you want to grow some roots. You don't have to be right the first time, although moving isn't fun. You're young and have lots of time to figure out where you ultimately want to end up. Enjoy the freedom of exploring. "In the souls of the people the grapes of wrath are filling and growing heavy, growing heavy for the vintage." -- John Steinbeck
June 4, 200817 yr When I have lived in other cities, I try to base my location upon easy access and available amenities. Cleveland+(sure I'll use the marketing campaign name) is a pretty diverse spread-out place with special nooks and lots of unique specialties. I'm sure I'd be relatively happy living in any of the areas you are looking at, although I've lived in none of them, therefore I'm pretty objective.. Mainly you should walk or drive around the neighborhoods you're considering. I wouldn't focus on the closeness of parks unless you have a particular sport you enjoy. Parks are everywhere and pretty accessible. Look through rent.net and apartments.com to figure out what you can afford and what you want to spend. Consider the mass transit options available from each area. With all the calculations you'll need to make, lucky for you, you're an engineer... 3-4 beer bars will keep you on the west side if you step into any one of them: Melt, Buckeye Beer Engine, Great Lakes, Tremont Tap House(I haven't been here yet..) Thats just a very quick list. Many more wonderful bars and restaurants that can be discovered sprinkled throughout the Westside. In the East, the only thing that would be comparable is la Cave du Vin in Cleveland Heights. Bars and restaurants are usually packed together in districts in the Eastside Personally, the complexity of making cbd your base when you have no understanding of the outlying area or suburbs would make things really confusing. There's so many lights, attractions, and distractions going on downtown all the time that you might not realize what you're missing in Lakewood, OC, Tremont, Little Italy, Shaker, Cleveland Heights, or Collinwood. I think there would be a tendency to just stay downtown. To me downtown is for the heartiest of Clevelanders or the heartiest of partiers. You're not the first, and I don't think you fit the latter.
June 4, 200817 yr Have to agree with the Coventry recs (try looking on Hampshire in particular) based on your criteria and where you are going to work. Good luck.
June 4, 200817 yr No Dear, do not, and I repeat, do not move to Shaker Heights. Shaker Square has been recommended - It's a neighborhood in Cleveland.
June 4, 200817 yr Well, it would take some planning but my recommendation would be to start about 5:30pm and plan to spend about 30-60 mins in each neighborhood. Drive slowly up and down streets in the neighborhood. Park your car and just sit awhile and watch what you see. Are the people living in that neighborhood people who you would like as neighbors? Do they look like they're taking care of their properties? Is there a lot of noise? I would also recommend visiting the neighborhood grocery store after 5pm, this will give you a good idea of the people who live in the area and what you would regularly be dealing with if you lived in that area. As KJP said, you don't have to get it perfect the first time. Just pick a city/area that seems like what you would like based on your visit and do your best to find an apartment that meets your needs. If you don't like it, you are only there for a year and then you can move, when you'll be more familiar with the city and the neighborhoods and what works for you and what doesn't.
June 4, 200817 yr What day of the week will you be in Cleveland? We could make better recommendations based on when you will be here. For example, there is a big difference between noon in Ohio City on a Saturday and noon on a Sunday.
June 4, 200817 yr Hey tradition, if you want to meet some people and have some fun (i.e. going out clubbing, trying/failing to pick up girls, drinking, yadda), send me a message and we'll meet up whenever you're in town. I go out Thursdays-Saturdays (split my time between Coventry, Downtown, Ohio City, and Lakewood) and we can check out those areas you're interested in In terms of where to live, I'd say Ohio City. I lived in Coventry for three years, and while I enjoyed my stay there, it's more of a hangout for Case/John Carroll students. OC has more professionals/peers in your field, and you can take a 20 minute train to Coventry to get to work.
June 4, 200817 yr Hey tradition, if you want to meet some people and have some fun (i.e. going out clubbing, trying/failing to pick up girls, drinking, yadda), send me a message and we'll meet up whenever you're in town. I go out Thursdays-Saturdays (split my time between Coventry, Downtown, Ohio City, and Lakewood) and we can check out those areas you're interested in In terms of where to live, I'd say Ohio City. I lived in Coventry for three years, and while I enjoyed my stay there, it's more of a hangout for Case/John Carroll students. OC has more professionals/peers in your field, and you can take a 20 minute train to Coventry to get to work. The train might be closer to 30 minutes, but tradition7, will be working at Nela Park. So he'd need to take the train to Windermere and then "get to" Nela Park via a connection.
June 10, 200817 yr Personally, the complexity of making cbd your base when you have no understanding of the outlying area or suburbs would make things really confusing. There's so many lights, attractions, and distractions going on downtown all the time that you might not realize what you're missing in Lakewood, OC, Tremont, Little Italy, Shaker, Cleveland Heights, or Collinwood. I think there would be a tendency to just stay downtown. To me downtown is for the heartiest of Clevelanders or the heartiest of partiers. You're not the first, and I don't think you fit the latter. I'd have to disagree. Downtown is the perfect place to make you Cleveland beachhead. A far as any "interesting" neighborhood in Cleveland or its inner ring suburbs, you can drive there within 20 minutes, ride your bike there/explore/and return in an afternoon, or take public transit, often even fast rail transit. That makes a huge difference. Clevelanders have a tendency to think of themselves as "eastsiders" or "westsiders" but Downtown is the neighborhood where those geographies can best be bridged, because it is in the middle, at the hub of transportation. There is alot going on Downtown, but not enough that an adventurous person won't be able to get out beyond it.
June 10, 200817 yr Thanks again for all of the great replies! I had a chance to make a half day stop through Cleveland today and check out some areas. As of right now I am leaning towards living somewhere in or near downtown. I have a friend who is moving into the Stonebridge apartments in July (when I will be moving to Cleveland). I will be living with another guy my age who I met through a friend so any recommendations on downtown apartments (2 bedroom) is appreciated. Does anyone have first or second-hand knowledge of Stonebridge and what are some general opinions or tidbits I should be aware of living there? The draw of Stonebridge is that it is near Ohio City and downtown, it is a bit cheaper and more spatious (from what I have heard) than apt's in the warehouse district and east 4th, parking is cheaper, and there are plenty of young professionals. I read on apartmentreviews.com that it isn't built the best, you can hear everything your neighbor is doing, it does not feel safe at night, and it is just like living in a college dorm with the noise everyone makes and one person said they thought prostitutes and drug dealers were living in the apt building. Is this legit or just a few very disgruntled renters? I do not mind noise on the weekends at all as I will be probably making a little bit myself on an occasional weekend. Also, the immediate area surrounding Stonebridge apt's is a little sketchy up above the hill around 25th-28th (to get on route 2). I am curious as to how safe it would be to walk to/from Ohio City or to the Warehouse district after dark? Any input is much appreciated and as of now I am trying to focus on some downtown apartments but have still not ruled out Coventry or Ohio city. I also know there is already a "downtown apartment" thread running so I apologize for any overlapping. Eparabola: I appreciate your offer on going out and failing to pick up girls. I will be back in Cleveland sometime next week hopefully (tentatively set as thursday the 19th) and maybe then you will be able to show me some good sights/hangouts.
June 11, 200817 yr The draw of Stonebridge is that it is near Ohio City and downtown, it is a bit cheaper and more spatious (from what I have heard) than apt's in the warehouse district and east 4th, parking is cheaper, and there are plenty of young professionals. I read on apartmentreviews.com that it isn't built the best, you can hear everything your neighbor is doing, it does not feel safe at night, and it is just like living in a college dorm with the noise everyone makes and one person said they thought prostitutes and drug dealers were living in the apt building. Is this legit or just a few very disgruntled renters? I do not mind noise on the weekends at all as I will be probably making a little bit myself on an occasional weekend. Also, the immediate area surrounding Stonebridge apt's is a little sketchy up above the hill around 25th-28th (to get on route 2). I am curious as to how safe it would be to walk to/from Ohio City or to the Warehouse district after dark? I live in the Stonebridge Plaza building which has some renters (there is a rent to own program) while others own their unit. I will attest that renters are more likely to be "college dorm-ish" than people who own their units. Considering the Stonebridge Apartments are all renters, that could be an issue. However, I haven't had any noise problems while inside my unit (which I love) and since I monitored it regularly during construction, I know all walls and ceilings have that machine blasted insulation in them, at least in my building, so the noise isn't a problem. The area you are referring to (Lakeview Apartments) is sketchy, plain and simple. I went to vote there and even during the day with poll workers and voters everywhere, it was still sketchy. On nights I have school, I exit Rt 2 on W 28th coming home (usually 10 pm) and invariably there are shady people lingering in the middle of the street out in front of the apartment buildings. However getting to the Warehouse District and Ohio City doesn't involve walking by that area so its not really a concern. There is that dead zone on W 25th between Detroit and the hospital that's a bit run down, but nothing unsafe. Walking under the Detroit-Superior Bridge to WHD is fine, well lit. And a cab is only $5 if you're DTM at the end of the night (drunk tired and miserable).
June 11, 200817 yr Are Stonebridge Apartments in the smaller building next to the Towers Condominiums?
June 12, 200817 yr Are Stonebridge Apartments in the smaller building next to the Towers Condominiums? Yes, they extend along the river. they were the first buildings built.
June 12, 200817 yr re: Stonebridge. I would almost insist on an apartment or condo rental (see craigslist or check iwth managment) in the towers or plaza, both of which have homeowners and most important the soundproofing was upgraded. The waterfront building has some nice views but you never know who your neighbor would be. The owners like a good party but also have to get up for work in the morning so they are not up all night making noise. The neighborhood is great. I have heard of some weird incidents coming off the east shoreway (easily avoided) later at night as well. To be honest, as bad as the crime is down in the subsidized housing, it rarely bleeds up into the Stonebridge area-worst thing is a juvenile breaking into a car-very rare right around SB. To me the most odd thing about the flats is it can be a very peaceful and beautiful oasis in the city. Can't explain. Weekends in the summer are insane. I watch the madness from my throne on the superior viaduct. edit: I should add- agree-no problem at all walking downtown anytime every one here does it. x2 what SHS said about oc.,although I am not a fan of desolate streches of w.25th later at night. I am female and can walk to work in OC w/o incident
June 12, 200817 yr I am only looking to rent an apartment initially and everything I found on craigslist for a 2 bedroom in the tower is a little bit more than I was hoping to spend. If my only option was to live in the waterfront apartments would you personally still live there if you were me?
June 12, 200817 yr tough one. Waterfront is closer to center st, which gets a some rowdiness in the summer. There used to be more problems when there was a trouble spot open (appealing their closure to they could reopen). If you do live there, avoid parking on center street as there can be break ins-although these decreased. Park on Detroit, or in the garage or gated parking. In waterfront, you are closer to walking downtown through the flats, but further to OC. For me the biggest issue with the oldest waterfront building would be how difficult it would be to get up on the viaduct...you would have to walk up the hill and around. The second apartment building (not towers or plaza) has a catwalk to the viaduct. I would not rule out waterfront...but I guess the biggest risk is if you get a loud neighbor, which can happen anywhere. Also know you can try negotiating rents for Tower condos on craigs list. Like a for sale by owner, sometimes people get an inflated sense of what they can get. Maybe you could even try that with the rental apartments..."I will only rent a unit in the tower or plaza for X price" it can't hurt.
June 19, 200816 yr I found a place in the tower. Thanks everyone for all of your help and I am excited to be a new resident of Cleveland starting in mid-July!
June 19, 200816 yr I found a place in the tower. Thanks everyone for all of your help and I am excited to be a new resident of Cleveland starting in mid-July! Congrats!!! Please dont be a stranger here. Please visit and share your experience.
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