Being a habitual renovator and I thought I would start a thread dedicated to home renovation, remodeling and building.

 

If anyone else needs help with any home decor, remodeling or renovation tips, please join the convo.

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I need to renovate my Kitchen, not that I use it much.  It' my least used and least favorite room. 

 

I'm putting together ideas for colors, textures, fabrics, etc.  I want to build a green kitchen and use concrete for my countertops.  I've never worked with concrete and wonder if any of our contractors have any ideas, tips or stories.

MTS, do you or does anyone know about Nature Stone?  How much it costs, generally (I checked their website and of course they want you to call or email for an appt before quoting prices), and if there's anything comparable in a DIY kinda deal?  I got this brainstorm yesterday that it would look reallllllyyy awesome on my front porch, with wainscotting under the windows (there are 10 8-paned windows that swing open, 3 on each of the sides, 4 across the front).  The porch is about 15x6-ish.  I don't have a ton of cash so I was thinking I could hold off on the wainscotting and just give the walls and windows a fresh coat of paint, if the Nature Stone is costly.  Thanks :)

I thought this was used only around pool decks and on small walkways? Humm.

 

I've never used it, but what I can suggest is visiting a local stone quarry and see if they have any "remnants"?  Or pieces of stone that are left overs.  You'll get it at a super low-ball price, but make sure to buy 30/40%  more than you need for repairs.

I have an old stone walkway along side my house that I'd like to repair. I don't have a driveway (our garage faces the alley), so this serves as our pathway to the front gate. The pathway is made up of the old sidewalk stone that you find in Cleveland and the inner ring suburbs. What is the name of his kind of stone and where can I find it?

It's probably Bluestone, but if you could take and post a picture(s) that would be more helpful.

I've heard several times now, that concrete is going out of style for counter tops.  Although I think it's highly about personal preference.  I actually like them, but for resale value I guess goes down if these things are installed.

Granite is so boring to me, and I've always been ahead of the curve. 

 

I currently have quartz counter tops, but want to experience something different.  I don't really like the granite counters we have in LA and my kitchen in NY is stainless steel and has a "operating room" feel to it so I definitely don't want to do that ever again.

 

 

 

 

I love the cold feel of granite

Rice Professor: Granite Countertops Emit Dangerous Radon and Radiation

 

http://www.efluxmedia.com/news_Rice_Professor_Granite_Countertops_Emit_Dangerous_Radon_and_Radiation_21001.html

i have this wood table that I am trying to paint/stain to match the surroundings, but there is definitely some type of lacquer covering it.  Do I need to sand this off first before applying the Minwax, if so, what grade sand paper should I be using?  Any help would be appreciated!

Prerequisite; an electric hand sander.

 

Use a coarse 40-60 grit depending how thick the layer of finish is that you are removing. If the layer is thin then I would use a medium 80-120 grit.

 

Finish using a fine 150-180 grit to smooth it out before reapplying the finish. When reapplying the stain and final sealer, use very fine 220-240 grit in between the two processes.

 

Finally, after reapplying both applications, finish with a super fine 360-600 grit paper.

^thanks :)

I have had a lot of success using citrus orange (It’s orange something) from Lowe's.  It is non-toxic and you can use it inside.  It is a gel you apply, let sit for about 30-45 minutes and take a PLASTIC putty knife and scrape off anything that isn't wood.  After that, sand with a 220 and apply your finish.  Makes furniture refinishing so much easier.

 

Stain (if you want) and let it sit over night.  Remember to get a tack rag and wipe down everything before you stain.

 

Apply your urethane as follows:

1. Urethane first coat and let it sit for a couple of hours and apply a second coat.  Let it sit over night.

2. Take 0000 steel wool and “sand” the piece down.  Tack rag the piece and apply a 3rd coat.  Note this will temporary dull your finish before you add the 3rd coat. 

3. I like 4 coats, so I would repeat the previous step, steel wool, tack rag and urethane. 

4. Finally get some automotive WET sand paper 1000 or 1500 and WET sand the entire piece down lightly. This will give it a mirror smooth shine. 

NOTE: The reason why I wouldn't use a hand sander is because your table probably only has a veneer (thin piece of wood) on it.  So taking a 40-60 grit piece of sandpaper to it will probably mess it up more than help you out.  A veneer is typically less than a 1/16 thick, so you don't have much to work with. 

The newest green countertop is paper based and they are actually quite nice and interesting

 

http://www.richlite.com/countertop/

 

Also, anyone replacing countertops, be aware that granite and concrete are really heavy compared to the laminate that you are probably replacing.  Many homeowners are installing industrial grade appliances (AGA stoves for example), solid hardwood cabinets and heavy countertop materials and the floor joists in the home were not built to handle that weight.  A reputable architect or interior designer will tell you if the floor needs reinforced before such an installation can take place....but I have heard a lot of horror stories.

A veneer is typically less than a 1/16 thick, so you don't have much to work with.  

I was assuming he is working with solid stained wood.

I was assuming he is working with solid stained wood.

 

Unless you are dealing with real high end furniture, you are probably deal with a veneer.  It doesn't matter the age of the piece either.  I have refinished pieces from the 20's that were veneers, granted they were a little thicker back then, but still a veneer. 

Bump

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Also, anyone replacing countertops, be aware that granite and concrete are really heavy compared to the laminate that you are probably replacing.  Many homeowners are installing industrial grade appliances (AGA stoves for example), solid hardwood cabinets and heavy countertop materials and the floor joists in the home were not built to handle that weight.  A reputable architect or interior designer will tell you if the floor needs reinforced before such an installation can take place....but I have heard a lot of horror stories.

 

Interesting point. I suppose that would be a major issue in many houses built in the 20th century. The only two I've redone were built in 1880s and 1919, and both have 2x8 floor joists on 16-inch centers; the joists in the older one are full-dimension, rough-sawed native timber, supported by 8x8 oak sills. They'd probably support anything you could put there. When the house was built there was a large commercial sawmill about a quarter-mile away, so the wood probably came from local forests where oak and ash trees were plentiful.

i have this wood table that I am trying to paint/stain to match the surroundings, but there is definitely some type of lacquer covering it. Do I need to sand this off first before applying the Minwax, if so, what grade sand paper should I be using?   Any help would be appreciated!

 

A little late weighing in here, but here is what I do (keeping in mind that I am not a pro):

 

I use a stripping product to take off the lacquer and as much of the stain as possible.  Then, use a coarse sand paper to get the wood down to the bone.  At that point, you can apply a new stain of your choosing.  Let it dry and then use a very fine grade sand paper to make it as smooth as possible.  You can apply a lacquer on top of the stain and very softry run the same fine grade sand paper over the dried lacquer to smooth out any rough spots.

Make sure to pay attention to your sand paper and switch it often.  It can quickly fill up with the old junk.

Unless you are dealing with real high end furniture, you are probably deal with a veneer.  It doesn't matter the age of the piece either.  I have refinished pieces from the 20's that were veneers, granted they were a little thicker back then, but still a veneer. 

 

Actually, very high end exotic woods, special finishes and rare species are going to most likely be veneer (birdseye maple, zebrano, anagre)....and much more expensive than a typical solid oak, maple or cherry. I think there is a misconception about veneer vs. hard wood...veneer with a substrate of mdf is much less likely to warp and a more stable product.  The most high end custom millwork I have ever done for clients has mostly been veneer.  Veneer also allows you to pick the grain pattern you want and how it is laid for a very high end custom look.

If you are using Concrete counter tops with the typical home improvement store cabinets you will have serious problems down the road. They won't hold up to that much weight.

 

If you are going to use them I recomend that between each cabinet there is space usually 1/2 inch. Most cabinets are screwed together at the front only when several are put together. You need to buy some good cabinet grade plywood and fill the space between the sides of the cabinets going all the way to the floor. Just use the cabinet side as your template  (less the face trim). I also recomend buying some 3/4 inch plywood and cut to fit and  attach it to the backside of the row of cabinets for extra strength. You may also want to replace those cheap plastic corner brackets most cabinets have to hold the corners together with metal.

 

There really is alot of work involved in this.

Random comment here, but when I was in Cali I went into someone's house who had African Walnut floors.... very nice.

Does anyone know about a place that sells wood from trees cut down in Cleveland?  I was told that it's on Scranton Road in the Flats and has "urban" in the name.

Random comment here, but when I was in Cali I went into someone's house who had African Walnut floors.... very nice.

 

Where they brown or black.  The black is just too dark.

Random comment here, but when I was in Cali I went into someone's house who had African Walnut floors.... very nice.

 

Where they brown or black. The black is just too dark.

 

Dark brown.  Short boards and visible fixtures, but very tasteful IMO.  The texture has a natural feel to it.  I just had never seen that type of floor before.

Any thoughts/ideas on where to go to find old vintage house furnishings? I thought there was something like this in the Cleveland area?

 

I am basically looking for wall/floor heat registers, door knobs, and maybe even a wrought iron staircase hand rail....

Conservation Studios Antiques on Larchmere and 127th has a good bit of that sort of thing on the 2nd floor (its primarily antique furniture on the first floor).

Conservation Studios Antiques on Larchmere and 127th has a good bit of that sort of thing on the 2nd floor (its primarily antique furniture on the first floor).

 

shhhhh!

Thanks Mayor!

there are actually several great antique stores on larchmere right around there where you may find what you are looking for... with the exception of shaker square antiques across the street... stay out of there unless you are in the market for a $10-15,000 armoire, or maybe a $20k desk.

the only way i'd be in the market for those, is if they could double as a residence

Does anybody know of a tile place in Cincinnati that specializes in older tile patterns, or matching old tile patterns? I have one wall in my guest bathroom tub that is just drywall and the other 2 are tile. The wall gets wet anytime the tub is used.

 

Also, would marine paint suffice on this wall if I can't find any place that has similar tile to what is already there? The tiles are 1.5" x 0.34".

 

Thanks in advance.

Does anybody know of a tile place in Cincinnati that specializes in older tile patterns, or matching old tile patterns? I have one wall in my guest bathroom tub that is just drywall and the other 2 are tile. The wall gets wet anytime the tub is used.

 

Also, would marine paint suffice on this wall if I can't find any place that has similar tile to what is already there? The tiles are 1.5" x 0.34".

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Do you have a picture?  It's hard to visualize.

 

I would do a google search for your house type/style and call a few architects to see if they know of any "period" or "restoration" company's that can help.

I will take some photos this weekend. This bathroom also has an angled ceiling above the tub. I think only children could stand in it and take a shower.

 

Its craftsman style...hopefully there is someone around here that won't charge an arm and leg.

I will take some photos this weekend. This bathroom also has an angled ceiling above the tub. I think only children could stand in it and take a shower.

 

Its craftsman style...hopefully there is someone around here that won't charge an arm and leg.

 

dumpster dive.  I do it all the time.  Ask at a few hardware stores if they know of any places that sell period furnishings/hardware or if they know of anyplace where you can get new tile in that period style.

Quick question here:  I am in the midst of remodeling a 10' x 10' room in my house that was built back in the 20s.  The first step with doing this was removing the wallpaper and subsequent underlying layers, which I couldn't tell were paint or another layer of wallpaper fused together over time.  Without thinking much of it at first, I started scraping off these lower layers onto the drop cloth below on the floor.  I did this for all of the walls in the entire room, with these scrapings sitting on the floor for a period of a couple weeks.  Now, after someone mentioned something, I am worried about the possibility of lead paint exposure. Assuming that this was lead paint, I will test it for sure, did I unknowingly subject myself to a poisoning by what I did?  If so, can just breathing in the dust particles cause any serious damage or am I over reacting? 

Quick question here:  I am in the midst of remodeling a 10' x 10' room in my house that was built back in the 20s.  The first step with doing this was removing the wallpaper and subsequent underlying layers, which I couldn't tell were paint or another layer of wallpaper fused together over time.  Without thinking much of it at first, I started scraping off these lower layers onto the drop cloth below on the floor.  I did this for all of the walls in the entire room, with these scrapings sitting on the floor for a period of a couple weeks.  Now, after someone mentioned something, I am worried about the possibility of lead paint exposure. Assuming that this was lead paint, I will test it for sure, did I unknowingly subject myself to a poisoning by what I did?  If so, can just breathing in the dust particles cause any serious damage or am I over reacting? 

 

Children are more vulnerable than adults to injury from lead paint residue, but I'm not a medical expert. If you determine that you've had lead dust exposure, the best thing to do would be to ask your doctor for advice.

Quick question here:  I am in the midst of remodeling a 10' x 10' room in my house that was built back in the 20s.  The first step with doing this was removing the wallpaper and subsequent underlying layers, which I couldn't tell were paint or another layer of wallpaper fused together over time.  Without thinking much of it at first, I started scraping off these lower layers onto the drop cloth below on the floor.  I did this for all of the walls in the entire room, with these scrapings sitting on the floor for a period of a couple weeks.  Now, after someone mentioned something, I am worried about the possibility of lead paint exposure. Assuming that this was lead paint, I will test it for sure, did I unknowingly subject myself to a poisoning by what I did?  If so, can just breathing in the dust particles cause any serious damage or am I over reacting? 

OMG!  Get to a doctor.  I can't believe you didn't get that stuff out of the house IMMEDIATELY.  That's reno rule number one.  Contain the space and dispose of all the materials ASAP!

 

I hope nothing serious happens.