Philadelphia has always reminded me a lot of my hometown of Cincinnati. Like Cincy, Philly has some stunning historical neighborhoods, beautiful parks, great topography, and its own unique local vibe. It has also seen itself surpassed in size and importance by younger and more ambitious cities, it has a massive inferiority complex, and it's a much better city than many of the locals give it credit for being.

 

I moved to Philadelphia in 2002 to enroll at Drexel University. Things didn't work out as planned, and I found myself unemployed for an extended period a few months later, so I ultimately ended up moving to NYC in 2004 to find work. But I generally look back with fondness at my time living there, and I enjoy visiting whenever possible.

 

My last visit was almost two years ago, so I figured it was time to make another trek. Unfortunately, I didn't get into town until almost 5 PM, so my time was limited before I had to catch the last train back to NYC, but I was able to visit the Penn campus, South Street, and take a short side trip over to Collingswood, New Jersey, where I initially lived and worked for a few months when I first arrived in town.

 

My undergrad thesis project involves transit design in a big way, so trains and transit have been on my mind a lot lately. These photos reflect that to some extent.

---

 

Leaving the Newark Airport station on the Northeast Corridor, we passed the little AirTrain monorail.

 

 

With clear skies and reasonable temperatures, train buffs were out in force with their cameras.

 

 

Passing an electrical substation on the Northeast Corridor.

 

 

Once you get away from NYC and the stations are further apart, even commuter trains can pick up some decent speed. Even at this speed we still get smoked by passing Acela trains, though.

 

 

More railfan action.

 

 

One the way down, I rode in one of NJ Transit's new double-decker coaches. Much more spacious and comfortable than the old single-level cars.

 

 

NJ Transit double-decker train at Trenton. Here's where we make the transfer to SEPTA's R7 train for the rest of the way to Philly.

 

 

Crossing the Delaware River into Pennsylvania after departing Trenton. The sign on the highway bridge beyond reads "TRENTON MAKES, THE WORLD TAKES".

 

 

Row houses near the train station at Bristol, Pennsylvania.

 

 

This opulent train station serves as the gateway to Bridesburg, PA. Grand Central Terminal, eat your heart out.

 

 

Passing under the Market-Frankford el as we approach Center City Philadelphia.

 

 

On the Regional Rail platforms at Philadelphia's grand 30th Street Station. The intercity rail platforms are on a lower level.

 

 

This motif appears in a number of former Pennsylvania Railroad stations.

 

 

Regional Rail platforms at 30th Street Station.

 

 

 

Inside the main waiting area at 30th Street Station.

 

 

 

I like the old Pennsylvania Railroad for two reasons: 1) They were all about electrification, and 2) They built some incredible train stations. Some of those stations have been lost to neglect or demolition, but 30th Street Station still has it.

 

 

The Market-Frankford subway station at 30th Street. The heavy-rail subway runs on the inner "express" tracks, while the outer "local" tracks serve Subway-Surface trolleys that make more frequent stops.

 

 

Subway-Surface trolley at 30th Street.

 

 

 

 

The newish M4 cars on the Market-Frankford subway.

 

 

The M4 trains look good on the outside, but I find the interiors cramped and claustrophobic.

 

 

One of several architecturally-interesting buildings clustered around the intersection of 40th and Walnut. This one has been built since the last time I was in the neighborhood.

 

 

Not bad for a parking garage. The Fresh Grocer occupies the ground level.

 

 

The campus business strip at 40th and Walnut. The streetcar track is used when Subway-Surface trolleys bypass the subway due to service changes.

 

 

The Fresh Grocer is a local chain that sells organic and gourmet foods. Sort of like Whole Foods, but with a conscience.

 

 

The Bridge movie theater across the street from the Fresh Grocer.

 

 

Another cool-looking new building at the west end of the Penn campus.

 

 

I need to find out what this building is and who designed it. It has a Steven Holl look to it.

 

 

Smokey Joe's, a Penn institution. This is where I was introduced to Yuengling Lager soon after I moved here from Chicago.

 

 

Sometime in 2003, a SEPTA trolley went off the tracks at this curve, took out the light pole and fire hydrant, and landed in some guy's bedroom. Nobody was hurt, but it gave people something to talk about. (The derailment was apparently caused by the rails being out of gauge.)

 

 

The trolley's flange marks are still visible in the sidewalk. The new-looking section of curb in the background is where the trolley landed.

 

 

A SEPTA Subway-Surface trolley on Baltimore Avenue. Philly is one of the few American cities that didn't entirely scrap its streetcar system.

 

 

Baltimore Avenue in West Philly.

 

 

A SEPTA Subway-Surface trolley stopping at Clark Park on Baltimore Avenue.

 

 

Row houses in West Philly.

 

 

 

Some good friends of mine lived in one of these row houses on Osage Avenue. Copious quantities of alcohol were consumed on these premises during my time living in Philly.

 

 

Orange cat on Osage Avenue. My own cat, Spong, began life as a stray kitten in this neighborhood.

 

 

St. Mary's Church on the Penn Campus. This was my church home during most of the time I lived in Philly, and where I was confirmed into the Episcopal Church. Most of my social life revolved around this church at the time.

 

 

The front door of St. Mary's.

 

 

Locust Walk on the Penn campus.

 

 

I have a major concrete fetish, so I've always liked this building. I'm probably one of few who do.

 

 

Locust Walk as it crosses over 38th Street.

 

 

Huntsman Hall, home of the Wharton School. This is where the next generation of Enron CEOs get trained.

 

 

The Pottruck Health and Fitness Center, designed by the NYC architecture firm that I now work for.

 

 

Locust Walk

 

 

This guy shows up all over the place in Philadelphia. Sort of like Elvis in Memphis.

 

 

Former home of the Palladium. Big fireplace, classical music, lots of dark wood, and a cute bartender who made good martinis. What more could one ask for in a bar? Alas, the Palladium lost its lease and moved to a different location, and things just weren't the same afterwards.

 

 

The Green on the Penn campus.

 

 

America's first university? Some Harvard people might quibble with that assertion.

 

 

New construction on the medical campus.

 

 

Biomedical Research Building II at UPenn. This building was designed by Perkins & Will in Chicago, where I happened to be working as a student intern at the time. I had a minor role in picking up some redlines on the construction documents for this project.

 

 

The main entry of Biomedical Research Building II. The partial circle, floating planes, and layered materials are all classic Perkins & Will moves.

 

 

It's always nice to get a shout-out.

 

 

Panda statue in the plaza in front of BRB2.

 

 

The University Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology.

 

 

Franklin Field, home of the Fighting Quakers. Go team!

 

 

The arcade at Franklin Field, along Spruce Street.

 

 

Meyerson Hall, home of the architecture school.

 

 

The front door to Meyerson Hall.

 

 

The Green from Meyerson Hall.

 

 

Fine Arts Library catching the setting sun.

 

 

 

 

College Hall, the oldest building on campus. Charles Addams, the cartoonist who would go on to create The Addams Family, was a Penn Student, and it is said that he modeled the fictional Addams Family mansion after this building. (The "Addams Family" characters may or may not have been a sly commentary on the university administration.)

 

 

 

An orange construction cone warns passers-by that the button is broken.

 

 

A pedestrian walkway on the Penn campus. Subway-Surface trolleys can be heard running in a subway below here.

 

 

A SEPTA Subway-Surface trolley emerging from the subway onto the surface.

 

 

The Philadelphia skyline from Market Street.

 

 

Now we're across the river in Collingswood, New Jersey. This old schoolhouse in the middle of town now houses an architecture firm, where I landed a job upon my arrival in Philly.

 

 

Haddon Avenue in downtown Collingswood, New Jersey.

 

 

An old theater building in Collingswood.

 

 

The PATCO rapid transit station in Collingswood. The line runs on an elevated viaduct about a block away from the main business district, parallel to Haddon Avenue.

 

 

The Ferry Avenue PATCO station, surrounded by acres of parking.

 

 

PATCO trains are a bit dated-looking, but the seating is comfortable, they move fast, and the ride quality is excellent. PATCO is also one of the few transit systems that runs 24 hours a day, and was the first system to adopt Automatic Train Operation (ATO). This feature would become commonplace on newer transit systems built in Washington, San Francisco, and Atlanta.

 

 

Every big city has a street where all the cool kids hang out. This is Philadelphia's South Street, of course with the obligatory Starbucks.

 

 

Pat's or Geno's? I prefer Jim's on South Street. No trip to Philly is complete without stopping here to get my cheesesteak fix.

 

 

The line at Jim's is often long, but the wait is worth it.

 

 

My favorite cities are the ones who take pride in their indigenous comfort food. Cincinnati has its chili, Chicago has its pizza, and Philly has this. Yum.

 

 

Heading to the Market East train station via the narrow streets of Society Hill. Philly's narrow streets make it one of the most walkable cities in America, but large parts of the city remain poorly-served by rail transit.

 

 

Dark streets in Chinatown, just north of the Market East station.

 

 

 

The Trocadero theater in Chinatown. I saw Yo La Tengo open up for the Sun Ra Arkestra here, and it was one of the best concerts I've ever been to. Based on what I heard coming from the theater when this photo was taken, I'd say tonight's act wasn't nearly as good.

 

 

The Market East regional rail station in downtown Philly. Commuter trains used to operate in two divisions, terminating at either Suburban Station or the Reading Terminal. A tunnel was constructed so that trains could operate in through service between the two divisions. Market East was built to replace the old Reading Terminal, which was bypassed by the project. Reading Terminal now serves as the city's main convention center.

 

 

 

An eastbound SEPTA regional rail train stops at Market East. All SEPTA regional rail trains are electrified, running under overhead catenary.

 

 

A bilevel NJ Transit train arriving on the opposite track at Trenton.

 

 

I have this weird fascination with the Ivy League, and one day I decided to collect a coffee mug from each of the eight Ivy League universities. The catch is, I had to buy the mug in person on campus. Today I checked the University of Pennsylvania off my list.

 

Left to right: Penn, Harvard, Princeton, Columbia, and Yale. Still missing: Cornell, Brown, and Dartmouth. I'll have to work on those.

 

 

I tried my hand at using my new digital camera to shoot some video while riding some trains, but my antiquated computer is choking on the large file sizes. I'll post them here as soon as I can figure out how to get the files off the camera, do some editing, and upload them to YouTube.

LIG.  Nice trip.  I don't know how you could take NJT and transfer to SEPTA.  I tried that once and vowed to never do it again.

 

I've taken photos from some of the same spots or walked on some of the very same spots you have.

Well done.

As promised, here are my crude attempts at shooting video from moving trains. (This is the first time I've shot video for any reason since high school.)

 

Riding SEPTA's R7 train from the North Philadelphia station into 30th Street Station. We pass through some of Philly's abandoned post-industrial landscape, cross over Fairmount Park and the Schuylkill River, and then travel alongside another SEPTA commuter train as both trains enter 30th Street Station.

 

 

In this video, we're riding a PATCO train across the Ben Franklin Bridge. PATCO trains have seats that face directly out the front of the train, providing a motorman's-eye-view of the tracks. Unfortunately, that seat was taken by some people having a loud conversation about healthcare reform, so I ended up sitting a few rows back and shot the video from a side window.

 

 

I also have a short video of riding the Northeast Corridor into New Brunswick, but it's not particularly exciting. And while standing on the platform in Trenton waiting for the SEPTA connection, an Acela train blew through the station at 125 MPH. Of course, my camera was sitting in my pocket at the time.  :x

Looks like my type of town. Awesome.

A GREAT tour. Thanks. I've got to get to Philadelphia. It's been 20 years.

That 30th Street station looks absolutely gorgeous!

Awesome. Great job. I rode the subway line in from 69th street terminal on the west side and saw a lot of that decay as well in 2003 going into Center City. Kind of depressing.

 

What percentage of the city of Philly is similar to the North Philly area (crime/decay-wise)? I think it is at least 30-35% or maybe more though the city is definately revitalizing.

 

Hopefully the inner city neighborhoods improve, not just areas surrounding Center City.